I arrived at Heathrow airport late at night. My flight was a little delayed. I called Kiran as soon as I collected my luggage to let her know I made it and was going to catch the underground train (UG) to the station by her place in Plaistow. It was really easy to figure out the UG. Once I arrived, her husband Kam met me at the station as Kiran was still on her way home from work. 11 pm, and only just getting home. Poor girl was exhausted! We only chatted for a short time and decided to have a proper reunion the next day. They had a spare room for me so I blew up my air mattress and with blankets and a pillow, fell fast asleep.
I spent just over a week with them. They both were working, so during the day I'd get on my computer and apply for jobs. In the afternoons, I'd go out for a walk around Plaistow and walk to Stratford where the big shopping centre was. I needed some warmer clothes for the UK and something other than backpacking clothes since I'd be in the country for a year.
Many foreigners in the community. Mostly of Muslim religion, so lots of halal butcher shops, burka/sari stores and street markets. Very colourful and lively in the neighbourhood. The fabrics were beautiful!
Kam usually got back from work in the early afternoon so I'd come back from my walk then.
They also had an evening where they had a party. It was a lot of fun meeting their friends. They're all social, full of life and outgoing. We played a game called Mafia. Strange game, we all draw a piece of paper out of a bowl, saying whether you were a suicide bomber, town's person or the Mafia. Then one person is the town judge so they control the game. We all close our eyes and the mafia points to a person who then is dead. When we open our eyes, we all have to guess who the mafia person is. Once accused, you get the chance to defend yourself. Everyone votes on who you think is the mafia you're sentencing to death. If your right, you won. If wrong, you either killed an innocent towns person (game continues) or a suicide bomber (who gets to take someone with them when they die. Best to pick who you think is the mafia so he/she doesn't win the game). It's tricky, and doesn't make a lot of sense, because there's no reason to pick anyone. You have to just guess,who you think it is. With your friends, you can read them and know if they're lying... things like that. I only just met everyone, so I found it difficult. But, it was fun.
I got an interview for a carer position to care for the disabled. It went very well and I got the job. Not bad for one week of job hunting. It was a live-in position, so I didn't have to worry about rent, food or commuting. No expenses. The catch was that because it was live-in, your always on the job. Work 7 days a week and only get 2-3 hours off a day. After a full 6-8 hr day, your on call. So it can be isolating and exhausting, depending on the clients needs.
I had a 5 day training course to do. Kiran and Kam had been so kind to open their home to me, I didn't want to overstay my welcome, so we said goodbye with plans to meet up again soon and I headed to Woolwich and stayed at the Antigallican Hotel for 3 nights before starting the training.
It was a really nice hotel. Great atmosphere and lots of character. There were 2 dorm rooms for 8 people. When I got to my room, there was only 1other person (the receptionist!). I pretty much had it all to myself. It also had a full kitchen upstairs in the lounge which is not easy to find in London. I was really happy with this place. It was one of the cheapest places too. What a find!
Over the weekend at the hotel, I walked down the main road to Greenwich to see the park, National Maritime Museum and Queen's House. I went into the Queen's House first. It was an art gallery of all the centuries of royalty. There were sculptures, paintings, portraits, furnishings and carvings. Some original, others replicas. The Classical style house was built initially for King James I's consort Anne of Denmark, back in 1616. But Anne died 3 years later. Then, 10 years later, King Charles I gave it to his wife Henrietta Maria so that became her home. The Tulip staircase was the first unsupported helical stairs built in England and it was stunning. I don't know much about art or architecture, but this house was really nice. Worth a gander!
I popped over into the rest of the Maritime museum and read about all the star charts, navigational tools over the eras, boats, reading the seas and maritime history (like captain James Cook).
Across from the museum was the Old Royal Naval College. It was very pretty and I could see why this location is used so often for movies.
After, I strolled up to the park (I took too long in the house and museum so the observatory was closing. Had to save for another day). They were using part of the park for the 2012 Olympics so the area right before the observatory was closed. Not a problem though, it's a big park. I was able to walk to the ponds and see the flowers.
The next day I went to the Tower of London. I walked across the Tower Bridge to get over the river Thames. What a pretty bridge. It had the Olympic rings decorated on it that were able to fold up when boats passed though the risen bridge.
The Tower was really neat. There were free tours with the Yeoman Warders (also known as Beefeaters) who actually live in the barracks on site. They told us about some of the history, like how it used to be a prison and some people were tortured. However, most of the executions occurred outside the tower up on Tower Hill. Graffiti can be seen up in Beauchamp Tower from the prisoners that were held there from 1532-1672. He spoke of the ghosts that have been witnessed around the tower. Like the story about the 2 young princes who disappeared, speculated to be murdered but the bodies never found. Also the menagerie where the exotic wild animals were kept, the chapel, the armoury, the crown jewels, Traitor's Gate and the Ravens. Superstition from the mid 1600's that if the ravens flew away, the tower and monarchy will fall. I noticed all the clipped wings on the ravens. Think that still counts then?
His stories were very captivating.
The crown jewels were spectacular. Crowns, rings, swords, sceptres, golden weaved robes, orbs and more. Couldn't believe the size of the diamond there. Wow! The sceptre was beautiful and my favourite crown was the Imperial State Crown. It wasn't all the glittering diamonds that attracted me (although impressive!), but all the colours of the gorgeous gems. Even had the large Black Prince's Ruby (size of a chicken egg), that was brought to England back in the 14th century, attached to it. That crown has a lot of history built into it. Many sapphires, pearls, diamonds and rubies to make 3,000 gems in all. Crazy that it's only decoration for the royal ceremonial coronation. It's just a showpiece otherwise.
Seeing the military and armoury side of things was interesting as well. There were tons of knight's armour with the swords and shields. Henry VIII's armour was pretty funny. He felt he was so blessed that he needed all this extra space down in front. Made me laugh. Also was a dragon statue that was made up entirely of weaponry. Now that was really creative.
After the weekend, I had to head up to Hatfield just north of London to start my week of training. The agency had a rooming house they'd let me stay in and would pick up the trainees from the house to the course and back. Worked out well. Even had free breakfast and lunch. Just had to arrange my own dinner. Perfect!
There were 5 of us and we all got on well. 2 of the girls, Ashley (from New Zealand) and Cass (from Australia) were just a little younger than me, so we got on quite well. After the end of the week, we all exchanged emails and phone numbers to keep in touch. The training itself was fine. Learned the basics of caring for people, the agencies policies and how to use hoists and transferring aids. We even had a driving test to make sure we were smooth drivers. Didn't want anyone driving people with brittle bones or little muscle control to swing around corners too fast or slam on the breaks. I get that.
After the training, I just had to wait for a position to be arranged, so I headed over to my cousins to stay with them for a while Plumstead.
I hadn't met Elizabeth (Lucy), Rodger or Rebecca before, but it didn't matter. As soon as we saw each other, it was like we've been close family right from the beginning. I love my family! We're all so close and loving, I'm very lucky :)
When I got to their house, I had a room all to myself. The huge window overlooked the small green field out front. Very nice and lots of light. Beautiful home, especially the backyard. They have a nice long garden with a small pond.
My first night there, we were in the living room and heard a strange sound, then a horn going off. We poked our heads out the front door, and 3 doors down, at the end of the terrace, was a car on fire! Someone must have stolen it and set it on fire when they dropped it off. Lucy called the fire department, who arrived quite promptly. Wow! That was a sight to see. I could feel the heat of the warm glow on my face since we weren't far away. No one got hurt and the fire was controlled and out in no time. There was our little bit of excitement! That was a first for me.
Over the next few days, we went on a few walks. We watched an Olympic marathon trial. The elites ran in the beginning, then there were registered runners. And many runners in costumes. Dressed from roman soldiers, fairies, storm troopers clowns to even grand (and awkward) outfits like a rhino and the Eiffel tower. They also took me to their local pub and I met some of their friends (one who got his wallet stolen from a gang of kids on his way home from Lucy's house. Really the neighbourhood isn't that bad! Just a few unfortunate incidents that just happened to occur while I was there), and also went to a few tourist spots.
The first was Eltham Palace and Gardens. It was once King Henry VIII's childhood home, then bought by a wealthy family that filled it with 1930's deco art. I really enjoyed the wall mural made up of different kinds of coloured wood to create the image of trees, with multiple buildings and 2 large guards standing on either side of the door entrance. Also, the family had a pet lemur, so it was neat to see the primate's quarters and how it was a part of their family. The gardens and moat was nice as well.
The second was Cutty Sark. It had just been opened the day before by the queen. It was the fastest ship of it's time and imported tea from China to London and wool from Australia to Britain. It's one of 3 clipper ships left in the world still whole with the iron frame and wooden hull. It's now a museum ship in Greenwich. I learned a lot about tea. Didn't know that green tea is made by drying the leaves quickly and black tea by bruising the leaves and letting them ferment before drying. Funny to learn that people on board took up roller skating, bicycle riding and dog breeding aboard the ship. Kept things interesting on those voyages!
I checked out the Greenwich Observatory after the ship. It was filled with all kinds of clocks and was built right on the Prime Meridian. To think I could stand on both the East and West hemispheres at the same time.
Thirdly, my cousins took me to Waltham Abbey church. It was very old, built in the 7th century. Over the centuries, kings had made additions to the church. At least 5 times anyway. A mixture of different rock and patterns can be seen. From fishbone type patterns, to medieval stones. Most of the design is from the 12th century now. The grounds were quite large and had a stone wall all around the outside of the abbey, graveyard and gardens. It was very peaceful.
We stopped for lunch at a pub in Chingford, and checked out the royal hunting lodge right beside. The Queen Elizabeth Hunting Lodge is surrounded by Epping forest where many dear, pheasants, rabbit and fox live. I only saw a Kestrel hovering in the sky when I was there though. The area was only hunted by the royals (as it is proclaimed a royal forest) and both Henry VIII and Elizabeth I are believed to have hunted here.
Inside the Tudor lodge were replicas of food and kitchenware so tourists could have an idea of the food made in the kitchen. Old clothes for the kids to play dress up in were upstairs.
Lastly, we went for a drive to Whitstable where my cousins had a beach hut. On our drive there, we had a cyclist up ahead of us who lost control of his bike, going so fast up to a corner in town and he hit a curb, flew over the front of the bike going over a railing. We pulled over to check and see how he was doing. A bit shocky and a sore thigh, but he was ok. He had a friend with him so we kept them company until the ambulance arrived. We carried on to the beach after everything was sorted with him.
When we arrived, we had the beach all to ourselves. The beach was made up of pebbles and shells, just like home. We had a nice lunch, walked their dog Eric on the beach and strolled through the town and fishing harbour. We were lucky with the weather. Though the clouds were around, we had lots of sun.
Today I'm just relaxing as I'm off to Farnborough, Hampshire for my first work placement.
Sunday, 29 April 2012
Monday, 2 April 2012
Dahab & Cairo
After my much needed nap, I met up with Jimmy and he walked me over to Aqua Divers down the road from Bishbishi Garden Village Hostel. I arranged for 2 dives the next day and then went into town to have a look around. I had a falafel wrap for dinner and with a full stomach, checked out all the shops. Nice thing about Dahab, the merchants are used to so many tourists that they don't pester you. They give you plenty of space and still keep their friendliness and warmth about them. It was perfect. If you needed them, they were beside you at a drop of a dime, otherwise they are either relaxed or trying to keep busy with small tasks not to scare you off.
I found some nice belly dance costumes made by a man and his wife. He also gave dance lessons. I tried on a few for fun and while in the change room, he insisted I practise my dancing to fully appreciate the outfit. It was a lot of fun. He would make a move and I had to copy. Good times.
Didn't take long before I was tuckered out and ready for bed.
I headed over to Aqua Divers first thing in the morning and met my dive master Milad. With all our gear loaded into the jeep, we headed to our first dive site, Moray Garden. There was a fair amount of wind so I picked sites not to be too affected by it. Didn't want to waste my air supply on exertion from swimming against currents! We had a lovely shore entry and there was no current. Perfect! The visibility was great and it wasn't long before I spotted my very first stonefish. Ended up seeing 2 of them! Very cool! They really do camouflage brilliantly and I can see why they're so dangerous. Also saw the usual tropical coloured fish (butterflyfish, danselfish, anemone fish, etc.) a masked pufferfish and whitespotted pufferfish, 2 common lionfish and a clearfin lionfish, shultz pipefish and various parrotfish (bicolour, steepheaded, bluebarrad, swarthy & rusty). The coral was nice as well. Not as impressive as the GBR, but not to be missed. The Red Sea has so much to offer. I'm looking forward to returning in the future to explore more of it.
My second dive site was Um El Sid and it was another shore entry. Slight to medium current here, so we made our decent as quickly as we could to get out of it. Glad my equalizing wasn't any problem that day. On our second dive, we saw all the same marine life as above plus long nose unicornfish, needlefish, a pyjama slug and a really special fish... a Red Sea Walkman! It's a type of scorpionfish that has claws on the fins so it walks along the bottom of the ocean floor. It was a bright red colour as well. Stunning creature! My dive master was thrilled to have seen him. It was his first one, diving in Dahab in 4 years. After 50 mins, I was getting cold so we surfaced. And whoa! That wind was cold! We changed as fast as we could and got back into the jeep so we could warm up.
I kind of wished I did rent an underwater camera to get pictures of the stonefish and red sea walkman, but I just wanted to enjoy the dive this time around.
Once back at the shop, I asked if I could borrow the wetsuit for the rest of the afternoon as I was wanting to snorkel down at the lighthouse. They said not a problem and I could return it the next day. No extra fee. Nice people. So, after a quick bite, it walked to the other end of town and jumped into the water. I knew right away I wouldn't be in there too long. I was chilled to the bone from being in the water all morning. And there was a lot of wind at this point (which is why I elected not to dive here) which made it difficult to snorkel and free dive. Mind you, I found free diving difficult as it was, due to the high salinity. Felt like I was wearing a life jacket!
Too bad there weren't rocks nearby to use to get down. Only coral beds. Just had to kick really hard. Many people wind surfing. Fun to watch them do jumps and flips out there. They sure got a lot of speed with that breeze!
After my snorkel, I dropped off the wetsuit back at the dive shop and went for a shower in my room. I had my dinner and Jimmy came to see how my day was. We talked for some time and then he decided to teach me how to play backgammon. It was a blast. He took it easy on me in the beginning, but I'm a fast learner so by the end of 90 mins, he was putting more effort in. We agreed to a rematch the next day, after my camel ride out to the Blue Hole for more snorkeling (that he talked me into). He spent all that time with me, so I thought it only fair to support him and take one of the daily outings.
I was so cold throughout the night, despite the 18 C temperature, and I wasn't feeling all that well in the morning. He postponed my plans till noon, gave me a herbal tea with something that tasted like ginger ( his mother used to give it to him when he was ill. He swore by it) and went back to bed. At least I was warming up. When I got up at 11:30, I felt so much better. I had to check out but they were kind enough to let me keep the room until I had to catch my ride back to Cairo in the evening. It was slow in tourism, so they could spare the space. Again, what wonderful people, I was very happy with the service.
Jimmy drove me out to the local Bedouin man with the camels. It was a nice 30 mins ride. Enough blankets to keep me comfortable, but I think another hour and I'd be sore. It is possible to get a rhythm while riding though.
Once at the Blue Hole, I went into one of the restaurants where my snorkel gear was supplied. Then in I went. Not too windy that day, but there was a decent current on the surface so I had to mind my body at all times to avoid floating into anything. Can be challenging when you want to stay in one spot to watch something, but I managed. Saw more of the same marine life, but no stonefish. Not deep enough. I thought I was lucky to see the puffer and lionfish as is was, being so close to the surface. It's supposed to be a great dive site. Maybe next time...
Once out of the water, I went to the restaurant to dry and change and the owner joined me for Bedouin tea (hmm, so good with that hint of mint) and conversation. He was a bit of a flirt. Though, most of the egyptian men are... lol.
My driver picked me up and took me back to the hostel. So many goats roaming the streets in Dahab. You'd think to see cats scrounging around... here, it's goats. Free to roam as they please. I asked, "don't the owners ever loose them and have trouble getting them back or worry about them being stolen?" He said they always find their way back home and owners know which ones are theirs. Plus, Dehab is a small Bedouin community, so most people know each other and will bring the goat back to the rightful person. Very seldom is there theft. Goats are very special to the people and cherished.
After my shower and dinner, Jimmy and I had another few rounds of Backgammon. One of which I actually won! I was so proud, didn't matter that he beat me 5 times before. I was finally getting strategic!
I had a private van, that a bunch of other tourists were on, to go back to Cairo in. The manager offered me a seat as there was one left and said it would be faster and more comfortable than the public bus. The bus would take 10 hours, the van... 8 hours. However, our 8 pm departure turned into 10 pm. So it would be a 4 am arrival. Luckily, Brothers hostel arranged everything so they knew to expect me. Plus, the owner Mo and I kept in touch by email so he knew when I'd be coming home and were I was.
What a long night that was! In theory, it would be faster then the public bus, but with the convoys... that would be a big fat no! It was extremely disappointing how long we'd have to wait for our convoy. We'd sit at the checkpoint for 20 mins to as long as an hour for the military to get in their vehicle for us to follow. They'd drive for about 15 mins then wave us on and they'd go back. I didn't understand the point of waiting all that time for a convoy that only stayed with us for 15 minutes! What a waste of time. Even had one time where we had to pull over to the side of the road, to wait for another military vehicle to come... in the middle of nowhere. The guards stood on the side of the road with their guns, smoking, talking and laughing, completely a ease. Never mind the flashing lights signalling "Look! Tourists here in the van! Come get us!" And the vast desert completely ignored on our other side. I mean, if the terrorists were going to ransom someone, we were sitting ducks, with a bloody beacon signifying who we were, with guards on the wrong side of the vehicle to protect us and not paying attention anyway. Easy pickin's. Of course, we didn't have any trouble, but I was regretting not taking the bus. Blending in with the locals is fine with me.
There were 2 Brazilian tourists and their guide kidnapped by a Bedouin tribe up by the Monastery earlier that day. So I understood the "security." The Sinai is not without it's problems. Luckily, those people were released within 24 hours, unharmed and with an apology from the tribal leader. I imagine they had an interesting tale to tell their family.
We didn't arrive in Cairo until 7 am. I was bagged! I managed to sleep 2 hours, but with all the checkpoints, it made it difficult to sleep. At least I had a bed ready for me. I only said a brief hello to reception, retrieved my large backpack from them and they showed me my bed at that was it. Out like a light until the afternoon.
When I awoke, I wasn't interested in doing too much, so I went out to get some food across the street at Koshary (nice dish of pasta and rice with dehydrated onions and lentils on top, covered with a tomato sauce. Onion lemon juice on the side.). I loved this dish, and so incredibly inexpensive! I actually ate there and the falafel stand a lot. Then I hung out in the lounge at reception and chatted with other guests and the staff. Ehab, Mo, Mohammad, Kareem and Emam were all interested to know how my trip went and if I was happy with it.
The next day, I had a new dorm room friend come in named Kris. He was from the USA. We got along and talked for hours. We also went for a walk in town, accompanied by Mohammad from the hostel. We went over two different bridges over the Nile. Qasr Al Nil Bridge had nice statues of lions on either side. We admired the Cairo Tower, but decided against paying the fees to go up for a smoggy view of Cairo.
So much traffic. We had to cross the highway at one point and there isn't a cross walk. Just run! Lol, not exactly safe, but the only way to cross it. Mohammad was good about leading the way. Though, he had a tendency to walk at an angle. Wherever his eyes went, his feet would follow. Not the most agile guy...
When we got back to the hostel, Ehab took us to a nice restaurant that he liked to go to so we could try some good local food. We ordered camel and chicken, grilled eggplant, dolmades, tahini sauce and a vegetable mix dip for our pita. It was really nice. Both meats were really well seasoned. Great spot.
After that, we walked some of the streets nearby the hostel, getting a few toiletries either of us needed to restock on and came across a young man that carried 2 glasses on his belt and a large jug of juice that had decorative flowers at the top. Kris decided to brave it and try a glass. Of course, this glass is used by many people, never washed but rinsed out with the juice, so that already had us grossed out, but he was a trooper. At first sip his face scrunched right up, saying the juice tasted like something the flowers probably grew out of. Ha! Priceless. I tried a sip, nasty stuff! Couldn't believe Kris managed to down the whole glass. Especially knowing how many other peoples spit lined that glass. Brave soul! Three men watching us got a good laugh. Another drank as well, to show how it's not so bad. "Put hair on your body," he said.Well, at least we know not to try that again. I took him to a drink stand a few doors down from the hostel and bought him a sugar cane drink. Nice, natural, sweet pressed sugar cane. Helped to get the bad taste out of our mouths. It's really nice.
Once back at the hostel, I convinced him to join me the next day for a tour of Old Cairo so I didn't have to go alone. 2 others were going to join us as well. A really nice asian couple.
We shared some beers in the evening, watching a movie in the lounge and I also played some backgammon with Emam and Kareem. I was getting pretty good. Emam taught me 2 other versions of the game. Fun.
The next morning, Ehab was our guide for our tour. Our first stop was the Citadel of Salah Al-Din. This citadel is seen on all their currency. It was a magnificent building. We were permitted to go inside (taking our shoes off at the door) and there were glowing orb lights in circular patterns hanging from the ceiling and beautiful golden arabic writing in corners of dome archways. Breathtaking. Outside along the citadel was a great panoramic view of Cairo. So many satellite dishes! I still can't get over that!
We walked through the military museum on the grounds as well. Learning some of Egypt's history. Different uniforms through the era, statues of pharaohs, tanks, planes, etc. It was interesting seeing the models of old Persian war catapults.
After, we went to a few other old churches. We saw the Church of St. George and the Babylon Fortress. The Hanging Church (Coptic Orthodox church), which dates back in the 3rd century AD, being one of the oldest churches in Egypt and built over a Roman Fortress gatehouse. As well as the Ben Erza Synagogue built in the 9th century. Many Roman fortifications here. It was really neat.
After that, we stopped into Khan-El-Khalili Bazaar to wander the alleys and stop for falafel. We took our falafel to a tea shop to eat it and had some tea and Sheesha. Apple flavoured tobacco this time. I could taste the apple, though faintly. Then, we headed back to the hostel. Ending my last activity of my tour.
I spent the next couple weeks staying at Brothers hostel, updating my resume and looking for a job in England on the internet. In my spare time, I hung out with the staff. They made me feel as part of the family and we all shared meals together, watched movies, socialized, went shopping and more backgammon. I had such an amazing time with them.
I had a couple outings with other backpackers travelling through. Seeing different areas of town. I spent 2 days getting 2 new belly dance costumes as well. I ended up getting both at the same store, Mahoud abd el Ghaffar, on Gawfar El Qayid st in Khan-El Khalili. They had 4 floors of costumes and tons of accessories, wings, coin scarfs, veils and props. I was in heaven. All the fitting is arranged with them at no extra charge (costumes were 700 EGP each, ~ CAD$115) so my bras fit perfectly. I just picked it up the next day. And seeing how I just had to walk 5 mins from the hostel to Al Opra square, then catch a minivan taxi over the bridge to Khan El Khalili for 1 EGP, it was easy to do.
I also spent another day at the Cairo Egyptian Museum. The building is a rusty red colour and has a dome on the top. It's not a tall building compared to it's neighbours in the area, but the colour makes it stand out. It has a garden area around the outside with a few statues and monuments of the pharaohs. Once inside, there are two floors. It was actually a very big museum and took me 5 hours to go through. On the ground floor were numerous pillars, colossal and regular sized statues, an extensive papyrus collection, coins from historic trade, tables, granite slabs with hieroglyphics and granite statues and sarcophaguses. Upstairs were many wooden coffins (wooden shelves lining the walls with glass window casings for viewing, layering up to 4-5 coffins) and 2 different royal mummy halls.
I went into both and it was incredible to see how well preserved the bodies were. They even had their teeth visible. The royals had their arms crossed, were some of the nobility didn't. The bodies were enclosed in glass cases that controlled the humidity and temperature for preservation. It was very well kept. Even saw mummified animals in with one or two. Canopic jars containing organs from the dead were present as well. I found them so interesting. Four organs were removed, each one in a particular guardian jar. The intestine would go in the jar of the falcon, the liver in the human, the stomach in the jackal and the lungs would go in the baboon. The heart is left in the body, as the Egyptians believed you thought, felt and ruled with your heart (your soul) so the brain was discarded.
There was another display with mummified animals. A lot of Egyptians mummified animals that sybolized their deities so many goats, baboons, falcons, cats, dogs, a cow and crocodile were displayed. However, some people made fake mummies, placing just fur or feathers in a linen wrap. They way they could tell was by radiographs, to tell if thee were bones. All very interesting. I was amazed at the cow and crocodile mummies. Also, to think all those years ago, they still had animals in Egypt... before the land dried up or were sacrificed. The royals did a lot of trade as well, bringing larger beasts from East Africa into their kingdoms... like lions or hippos.
Also upstairs were thousands of artifacts from tombs. Little figurines (that represented servants for the deceased in the afterlife), jewelry, tools, papyrus scrolls, alabaster vases, shrines, carvings, magnificent gold beds and chests, the black Anubis statue of the jackal, and of course the famous artifacts of Tutankhamun. Such as the great golden mask that was found over the wrapped head of the young king, which weighs up to 11 kg (~ 24 lbs). and his beautiful golden sarcophagus. So much gold... lots of exquisite jewelry (ivory and gold bracelets, necklaces of beads, gold and gems) and many weapons. Astonishing up on this floor. So much to see and appreciate from both Ancient Egypt and Middle Kingdom dynasties. Shame no photography was allowed. But, understandable.
Now, I'm waiting to catch my flight to Heathrow in London, England where I'll then be staying with my new friends, Kiran and Kam. They're the lovely couple I met camping out in the desert here in Egypt and they have invited me to stay with them. I'm looking forward to seeing them again!
I found some nice belly dance costumes made by a man and his wife. He also gave dance lessons. I tried on a few for fun and while in the change room, he insisted I practise my dancing to fully appreciate the outfit. It was a lot of fun. He would make a move and I had to copy. Good times.
Didn't take long before I was tuckered out and ready for bed.
I headed over to Aqua Divers first thing in the morning and met my dive master Milad. With all our gear loaded into the jeep, we headed to our first dive site, Moray Garden. There was a fair amount of wind so I picked sites not to be too affected by it. Didn't want to waste my air supply on exertion from swimming against currents! We had a lovely shore entry and there was no current. Perfect! The visibility was great and it wasn't long before I spotted my very first stonefish. Ended up seeing 2 of them! Very cool! They really do camouflage brilliantly and I can see why they're so dangerous. Also saw the usual tropical coloured fish (butterflyfish, danselfish, anemone fish, etc.) a masked pufferfish and whitespotted pufferfish, 2 common lionfish and a clearfin lionfish, shultz pipefish and various parrotfish (bicolour, steepheaded, bluebarrad, swarthy & rusty). The coral was nice as well. Not as impressive as the GBR, but not to be missed. The Red Sea has so much to offer. I'm looking forward to returning in the future to explore more of it.
My second dive site was Um El Sid and it was another shore entry. Slight to medium current here, so we made our decent as quickly as we could to get out of it. Glad my equalizing wasn't any problem that day. On our second dive, we saw all the same marine life as above plus long nose unicornfish, needlefish, a pyjama slug and a really special fish... a Red Sea Walkman! It's a type of scorpionfish that has claws on the fins so it walks along the bottom of the ocean floor. It was a bright red colour as well. Stunning creature! My dive master was thrilled to have seen him. It was his first one, diving in Dahab in 4 years. After 50 mins, I was getting cold so we surfaced. And whoa! That wind was cold! We changed as fast as we could and got back into the jeep so we could warm up.
I kind of wished I did rent an underwater camera to get pictures of the stonefish and red sea walkman, but I just wanted to enjoy the dive this time around.
Once back at the shop, I asked if I could borrow the wetsuit for the rest of the afternoon as I was wanting to snorkel down at the lighthouse. They said not a problem and I could return it the next day. No extra fee. Nice people. So, after a quick bite, it walked to the other end of town and jumped into the water. I knew right away I wouldn't be in there too long. I was chilled to the bone from being in the water all morning. And there was a lot of wind at this point (which is why I elected not to dive here) which made it difficult to snorkel and free dive. Mind you, I found free diving difficult as it was, due to the high salinity. Felt like I was wearing a life jacket!
Too bad there weren't rocks nearby to use to get down. Only coral beds. Just had to kick really hard. Many people wind surfing. Fun to watch them do jumps and flips out there. They sure got a lot of speed with that breeze!
After my snorkel, I dropped off the wetsuit back at the dive shop and went for a shower in my room. I had my dinner and Jimmy came to see how my day was. We talked for some time and then he decided to teach me how to play backgammon. It was a blast. He took it easy on me in the beginning, but I'm a fast learner so by the end of 90 mins, he was putting more effort in. We agreed to a rematch the next day, after my camel ride out to the Blue Hole for more snorkeling (that he talked me into). He spent all that time with me, so I thought it only fair to support him and take one of the daily outings.
I was so cold throughout the night, despite the 18 C temperature, and I wasn't feeling all that well in the morning. He postponed my plans till noon, gave me a herbal tea with something that tasted like ginger ( his mother used to give it to him when he was ill. He swore by it) and went back to bed. At least I was warming up. When I got up at 11:30, I felt so much better. I had to check out but they were kind enough to let me keep the room until I had to catch my ride back to Cairo in the evening. It was slow in tourism, so they could spare the space. Again, what wonderful people, I was very happy with the service.
Jimmy drove me out to the local Bedouin man with the camels. It was a nice 30 mins ride. Enough blankets to keep me comfortable, but I think another hour and I'd be sore. It is possible to get a rhythm while riding though.
Once at the Blue Hole, I went into one of the restaurants where my snorkel gear was supplied. Then in I went. Not too windy that day, but there was a decent current on the surface so I had to mind my body at all times to avoid floating into anything. Can be challenging when you want to stay in one spot to watch something, but I managed. Saw more of the same marine life, but no stonefish. Not deep enough. I thought I was lucky to see the puffer and lionfish as is was, being so close to the surface. It's supposed to be a great dive site. Maybe next time...
Once out of the water, I went to the restaurant to dry and change and the owner joined me for Bedouin tea (hmm, so good with that hint of mint) and conversation. He was a bit of a flirt. Though, most of the egyptian men are... lol.
My driver picked me up and took me back to the hostel. So many goats roaming the streets in Dahab. You'd think to see cats scrounging around... here, it's goats. Free to roam as they please. I asked, "don't the owners ever loose them and have trouble getting them back or worry about them being stolen?" He said they always find their way back home and owners know which ones are theirs. Plus, Dehab is a small Bedouin community, so most people know each other and will bring the goat back to the rightful person. Very seldom is there theft. Goats are very special to the people and cherished.
After my shower and dinner, Jimmy and I had another few rounds of Backgammon. One of which I actually won! I was so proud, didn't matter that he beat me 5 times before. I was finally getting strategic!
I had a private van, that a bunch of other tourists were on, to go back to Cairo in. The manager offered me a seat as there was one left and said it would be faster and more comfortable than the public bus. The bus would take 10 hours, the van... 8 hours. However, our 8 pm departure turned into 10 pm. So it would be a 4 am arrival. Luckily, Brothers hostel arranged everything so they knew to expect me. Plus, the owner Mo and I kept in touch by email so he knew when I'd be coming home and were I was.
What a long night that was! In theory, it would be faster then the public bus, but with the convoys... that would be a big fat no! It was extremely disappointing how long we'd have to wait for our convoy. We'd sit at the checkpoint for 20 mins to as long as an hour for the military to get in their vehicle for us to follow. They'd drive for about 15 mins then wave us on and they'd go back. I didn't understand the point of waiting all that time for a convoy that only stayed with us for 15 minutes! What a waste of time. Even had one time where we had to pull over to the side of the road, to wait for another military vehicle to come... in the middle of nowhere. The guards stood on the side of the road with their guns, smoking, talking and laughing, completely a ease. Never mind the flashing lights signalling "Look! Tourists here in the van! Come get us!" And the vast desert completely ignored on our other side. I mean, if the terrorists were going to ransom someone, we were sitting ducks, with a bloody beacon signifying who we were, with guards on the wrong side of the vehicle to protect us and not paying attention anyway. Easy pickin's. Of course, we didn't have any trouble, but I was regretting not taking the bus. Blending in with the locals is fine with me.
There were 2 Brazilian tourists and their guide kidnapped by a Bedouin tribe up by the Monastery earlier that day. So I understood the "security." The Sinai is not without it's problems. Luckily, those people were released within 24 hours, unharmed and with an apology from the tribal leader. I imagine they had an interesting tale to tell their family.
We didn't arrive in Cairo until 7 am. I was bagged! I managed to sleep 2 hours, but with all the checkpoints, it made it difficult to sleep. At least I had a bed ready for me. I only said a brief hello to reception, retrieved my large backpack from them and they showed me my bed at that was it. Out like a light until the afternoon.
When I awoke, I wasn't interested in doing too much, so I went out to get some food across the street at Koshary (nice dish of pasta and rice with dehydrated onions and lentils on top, covered with a tomato sauce. Onion lemon juice on the side.). I loved this dish, and so incredibly inexpensive! I actually ate there and the falafel stand a lot. Then I hung out in the lounge at reception and chatted with other guests and the staff. Ehab, Mo, Mohammad, Kareem and Emam were all interested to know how my trip went and if I was happy with it.
The next day, I had a new dorm room friend come in named Kris. He was from the USA. We got along and talked for hours. We also went for a walk in town, accompanied by Mohammad from the hostel. We went over two different bridges over the Nile. Qasr Al Nil Bridge had nice statues of lions on either side. We admired the Cairo Tower, but decided against paying the fees to go up for a smoggy view of Cairo.
So much traffic. We had to cross the highway at one point and there isn't a cross walk. Just run! Lol, not exactly safe, but the only way to cross it. Mohammad was good about leading the way. Though, he had a tendency to walk at an angle. Wherever his eyes went, his feet would follow. Not the most agile guy...
When we got back to the hostel, Ehab took us to a nice restaurant that he liked to go to so we could try some good local food. We ordered camel and chicken, grilled eggplant, dolmades, tahini sauce and a vegetable mix dip for our pita. It was really nice. Both meats were really well seasoned. Great spot.
After that, we walked some of the streets nearby the hostel, getting a few toiletries either of us needed to restock on and came across a young man that carried 2 glasses on his belt and a large jug of juice that had decorative flowers at the top. Kris decided to brave it and try a glass. Of course, this glass is used by many people, never washed but rinsed out with the juice, so that already had us grossed out, but he was a trooper. At first sip his face scrunched right up, saying the juice tasted like something the flowers probably grew out of. Ha! Priceless. I tried a sip, nasty stuff! Couldn't believe Kris managed to down the whole glass. Especially knowing how many other peoples spit lined that glass. Brave soul! Three men watching us got a good laugh. Another drank as well, to show how it's not so bad. "Put hair on your body," he said.Well, at least we know not to try that again. I took him to a drink stand a few doors down from the hostel and bought him a sugar cane drink. Nice, natural, sweet pressed sugar cane. Helped to get the bad taste out of our mouths. It's really nice.
Once back at the hostel, I convinced him to join me the next day for a tour of Old Cairo so I didn't have to go alone. 2 others were going to join us as well. A really nice asian couple.
We shared some beers in the evening, watching a movie in the lounge and I also played some backgammon with Emam and Kareem. I was getting pretty good. Emam taught me 2 other versions of the game. Fun.
The next morning, Ehab was our guide for our tour. Our first stop was the Citadel of Salah Al-Din. This citadel is seen on all their currency. It was a magnificent building. We were permitted to go inside (taking our shoes off at the door) and there were glowing orb lights in circular patterns hanging from the ceiling and beautiful golden arabic writing in corners of dome archways. Breathtaking. Outside along the citadel was a great panoramic view of Cairo. So many satellite dishes! I still can't get over that!
We walked through the military museum on the grounds as well. Learning some of Egypt's history. Different uniforms through the era, statues of pharaohs, tanks, planes, etc. It was interesting seeing the models of old Persian war catapults.
After, we went to a few other old churches. We saw the Church of St. George and the Babylon Fortress. The Hanging Church (Coptic Orthodox church), which dates back in the 3rd century AD, being one of the oldest churches in Egypt and built over a Roman Fortress gatehouse. As well as the Ben Erza Synagogue built in the 9th century. Many Roman fortifications here. It was really neat.
After that, we stopped into Khan-El-Khalili Bazaar to wander the alleys and stop for falafel. We took our falafel to a tea shop to eat it and had some tea and Sheesha. Apple flavoured tobacco this time. I could taste the apple, though faintly. Then, we headed back to the hostel. Ending my last activity of my tour.
I spent the next couple weeks staying at Brothers hostel, updating my resume and looking for a job in England on the internet. In my spare time, I hung out with the staff. They made me feel as part of the family and we all shared meals together, watched movies, socialized, went shopping and more backgammon. I had such an amazing time with them.
I had a couple outings with other backpackers travelling through. Seeing different areas of town. I spent 2 days getting 2 new belly dance costumes as well. I ended up getting both at the same store, Mahoud abd el Ghaffar, on Gawfar El Qayid st in Khan-El Khalili. They had 4 floors of costumes and tons of accessories, wings, coin scarfs, veils and props. I was in heaven. All the fitting is arranged with them at no extra charge (costumes were 700 EGP each, ~ CAD$115) so my bras fit perfectly. I just picked it up the next day. And seeing how I just had to walk 5 mins from the hostel to Al Opra square, then catch a minivan taxi over the bridge to Khan El Khalili for 1 EGP, it was easy to do.
I also spent another day at the Cairo Egyptian Museum. The building is a rusty red colour and has a dome on the top. It's not a tall building compared to it's neighbours in the area, but the colour makes it stand out. It has a garden area around the outside with a few statues and monuments of the pharaohs. Once inside, there are two floors. It was actually a very big museum and took me 5 hours to go through. On the ground floor were numerous pillars, colossal and regular sized statues, an extensive papyrus collection, coins from historic trade, tables, granite slabs with hieroglyphics and granite statues and sarcophaguses. Upstairs were many wooden coffins (wooden shelves lining the walls with glass window casings for viewing, layering up to 4-5 coffins) and 2 different royal mummy halls.
I went into both and it was incredible to see how well preserved the bodies were. They even had their teeth visible. The royals had their arms crossed, were some of the nobility didn't. The bodies were enclosed in glass cases that controlled the humidity and temperature for preservation. It was very well kept. Even saw mummified animals in with one or two. Canopic jars containing organs from the dead were present as well. I found them so interesting. Four organs were removed, each one in a particular guardian jar. The intestine would go in the jar of the falcon, the liver in the human, the stomach in the jackal and the lungs would go in the baboon. The heart is left in the body, as the Egyptians believed you thought, felt and ruled with your heart (your soul) so the brain was discarded.
There was another display with mummified animals. A lot of Egyptians mummified animals that sybolized their deities so many goats, baboons, falcons, cats, dogs, a cow and crocodile were displayed. However, some people made fake mummies, placing just fur or feathers in a linen wrap. They way they could tell was by radiographs, to tell if thee were bones. All very interesting. I was amazed at the cow and crocodile mummies. Also, to think all those years ago, they still had animals in Egypt... before the land dried up or were sacrificed. The royals did a lot of trade as well, bringing larger beasts from East Africa into their kingdoms... like lions or hippos.
Also upstairs were thousands of artifacts from tombs. Little figurines (that represented servants for the deceased in the afterlife), jewelry, tools, papyrus scrolls, alabaster vases, shrines, carvings, magnificent gold beds and chests, the black Anubis statue of the jackal, and of course the famous artifacts of Tutankhamun. Such as the great golden mask that was found over the wrapped head of the young king, which weighs up to 11 kg (~ 24 lbs). and his beautiful golden sarcophagus. So much gold... lots of exquisite jewelry (ivory and gold bracelets, necklaces of beads, gold and gems) and many weapons. Astonishing up on this floor. So much to see and appreciate from both Ancient Egypt and Middle Kingdom dynasties. Shame no photography was allowed. But, understandable.
Now, I'm waiting to catch my flight to Heathrow in London, England where I'll then be staying with my new friends, Kiran and Kam. They're the lovely couple I met camping out in the desert here in Egypt and they have invited me to stay with them. I'm looking forward to seeing them again!