Newcastle/York/Scarborough

Once I arrived in Newcastle, my host and friend Netin met me at the bus stop. And with a bottle of coke-cola in hand that had my name on it. How thoughtful :)

Netin and I first met in Nairobi, Kenya. We spend a day together enjoying the sights, eating and watching some live music and dancing at a bar. We stayed in touch with Facebook ever since.
After dropping my bags off at his place and a little tour of his flat, we took the bus to see the "Angel of the North" sculpture. One of the highlights of Newcastle. It was made of 200 tonnes of steel at the height of 20 meters and a wing span of 54 meters. Pretty big!
We then caught the train to Durham to visit the World Heritage site. It was a nice little town. All the stone brick buildings, cobbled streets, cool narrow alleys with old lamp posts, a river and a lovely cathedral. I really liked the buildings around the market place as well.
Next we headed into the city centre of Newcastle, spending the remainder of the day walking the streets, checking out the architecture and having dinner at a hotpot place.
Now that was a first for me. I've never had hotpot before. It was so good! Just order up meat and veggies and a broth you like. Then, toss the uncooked food into the hot pot of broth and once cooked, eat it up! Really good... and fun. Of course, you need to like the broth, as all your food will have the same taste. But, I enjoyed it.
In the morning after breakfast, Netin went to work and I ventured out for the day. I crossed the Tyne river and then followed along the Quayside before reaching the centre. I admired the Gateshead Millennium bridge, the Sage Gateshead building (dome shaped place that holds live music venues), Grey's Monument, Chinese Arch and other random buildings with beautiful dated architecture. I ventured into a few outdoor gear shops as well. Always love shopping around for new backpacking gear!
I then took the bus to the Metrocentre shopping centre. The second biggest shopping centre in the UK. Here, I found a snazzy dress. It was a bit crazy with the geometric black and white shapes all over it, but it fit nicely. And since I don't own a dress,  it was fun to get one. Nice to have something dressy when I go out.

Once Netin finished work, we met up with one of his friends, Diego from Brazil, for dinner. We went out to a couple pubs for drinks, billiards and darts. It was great fun. They taught me how to play darts... though I must confess, it's not my strong suit. Still had a blast though. Diego was a lot of fun and a good person. We stayed out till 2 am! Been a while since I stayed out that late! I passed out quickly once back at Netin's place.
The next day, we said our goodbye's in the morning and I caught the train to York.Upon arrival, I checked into my hostel, Ace York Hostel. It was nice, the room was spacious, with luggage storage under the bed and I met 2 of my bunk mates. Another Canadian and an older woman from South Africa. After having a nice chat, I went to see York Minster. I decided to pay the price of 15 pounds to tour the inside and go up the tower.
There was a voluntary guide that took us around the minster, explaining about the art and told stories about the stain glass windows. One even was an advertisement for bells the artist made. Funny that they did that all those years ago. He was a good guide, managed to make quite a few jokes that were actually funny. I really enjoyed it.
Stone, glass, wood and music all illustrated the Christian faith. The Nave (dated between 1291- 1350) had a beautiful window known as "the Heart of Yorkshire" because of the heart-shaped stonework. It was stunning.
The roof bosses also were beautiful. White and yellow ribs holding the ceiling together. Very nice. The "Astronomical Clock" by the chapter house was lovely as well. And the Quire in the centre had impressive statuary decorating the entrance called the King's screen.
I also admired some of the stone work with the grotesques. There were quite a few comical ones. One looked like a gremlin putting corn (or something) up an animal's behind. Not sure what that means in the faith, but it made me laugh.

The 275 steps weren’t difficult climbing, going up the tower despite all the warning signs. But I suppose after hiking the West Highland Way with a heavy backpack, it wouldn’t be. The platform at the top gave you a nice view of the city. Both on the outside and inside of the city walls.
After my visit with the Minster, I walked around town taking photos of some of my favourite alleys and streets as well as doing some people watching.
I decided to spoil myself on a nice dinner once my hunger kicked in. I was craving pasta, so I went to a place called Prezzo. I say spoil, but what I really mean is, I’d like a decent meal that won’t cost me an arm and a leg. This place was perfect. I couldn’t decide on 2 dishes, so I was able to get both in smaller portions. It was delicious!
I took some more night pictures, as it’s my favourite city in England. Walking around to enjoy it one last time.
The next day, I walked outside the city walls to dispose of the rest of my camping fuel at the waste management facility and roam some of the outlet stores. Then I took the train to Scarborough to meet up with Pat and Sarah (close family friends) for a visit. Sarah originally had plans to go out that evening, making it a shorter visit, but they got cancelled. So instead, she invited me to stay the night and we could go out on a night of the town. I figured, all my belongings were safely locked in my dorm room so why not? We ordered some Indian food for dinner, had a couple glasses of wine (yup, I was drinking wine. But a sweet rose this time) and did the very girly thing of dress up, hair and make-up. Sarah did my make-up for me and gave me shoes and a shirt to wear. I felt very glamorous after always being so rugged from backpacking. Nice to be pampered a bit.

We started at a pub, drinking some ciders, then moved to a second and third before finally getting to a dance club. We had a great time. Even had a couple blokes dance with us. One kept picking me up and spinning me around... I got pretty dizzy. Mixed with the drinks, it was a bit too much spinning.
But it all ended to soon. The bar closed up and we walked home. I had to catch an early train the next morning, to make it back to my hostel in time for checkout. Pat gave me a ride there. A short visit, but it sure was fun. Nice to let loose now and again.
I packed quickly at the hostel, then went to the bus stop near the train station where Megabus would take me to London. I made a few friends while waiting for the bus. 4 elderly people were waiting for theirs heading to Scotland, so I told them all about my time up there. They were enthralled with my solo travels and camping . “Such a young thing all on my own” they’d said. Such lovely people. We all hugged goodbye when their bus came.
Also met a Nigerian fellow who was living in York, working as a carer in a home. He also was waiting for the same bus as me. We sat together and chatted the whole journey. Was nice to pass the time talking with someone. Ha ha, as I do.
Once I arrived in London, I had about an hour to kill before heading to my host and friend Ale’s place. Seeing how I had all my heavy luggage, I just found a quite spot in the station and watched a TV show on my netbook. Then I made my way to North Acton where Ale met me at the station and we walked together to his place.
We spent the rest of the evening talking over dinner.
He has to work for the next few days, so he gave me his keys to the house so I could come and go as I please. I think today is a good day to have a down day. But, I will take a look at my London map and see what I haven't explored yet to occupy the next few days.

West Highland Way

After leaving my cousins in Stratford-upon-Avon, my bus arrived in Birmingham late morning. Martin met me at the Digbeth station and we started our journey north to Scotland. He was a very easy going person and we got along really well. We drove up to Ayre and looked around there before arriving in Prestwick for a campsite. However, we arrived fairly late in the evening and the only one we came to was closed. So, he convinced me to stay in a B&B for the night rather than wild camp. We stayed at the Fernbank Guest House run by David. He was a cheery fellow who was very friendly. Our room had two beds and an en suite. It was very clean. Lovely place. Martin and I grabbed a little bite to eat at a Chinese takeaway and it wasn't long before we fell asleep.
Next morning we drove to Glasgow to pick up Megan. She let us drop off any of our belongings that weren't needed for the trek at her flat. Thank goodness! I had way too much stuff!!
After being around her for 5 minutes, I new we'd get along great. Just the cutest little thing with a bite! Couldn't help but love her.
Next we picked up Catherine. Now here was a talkative one. And that's saying a lot coming from me. Lol!
We did a quick pit stop at the Tiso outdoor store to pick up any last minute supplies and off we went to Balmaha.
I chose to stay at the Sallochy Campsite as it was inexpensive and quiet along Loch Lomond. The West Highland Way trail goes through the campsite as well, and 2 other people were thinking about joining us so it would be an easy location to meet up.
Once we all set up our tents, we decided to go on a warm-up hike up Ben Lomond. I didn't realize it was as long of a hike as it was, so I didn't wear my proper hiking socks. Not good. By the time we got back to camp, my feet had a few tender spots from the rubbing. My fault, I thought 3 hours meant the total turn around time for the hike... not the time it took to ascend. Whoops! The view was spectacular though. Rolling hills and lakes.
That evening, we ate together and hand some bonding time. Getting to know one another. We each had our own tent. After being sweaty all day, smelly and with each other constantly, I thought it best for me to have my own tent for a sanctuary. Somewhere to get a bit of personal space. So, it worked out nicely since we all felt that way.
Unfortunately, the other 2 guys couldn't make it. So, Martin was going to have to endure being the only male in our little group. Though, I don't think he minded.
The next morning, we had a choice of following the trail along the loch, or another up a bit higher in the wooded area. Catherine had done the trek before and said the one along the loch is more up and down and scenic, but the wooded one was easier. We chose the scenic one along the lake. And boy, was that slow going. Scrambling over rocks, fallen trees, roots and even leaping across some gaps between rocks. Ducking under branches. Trying not to slip in a few muddy areas. And having a heavy backpack doing that was hard and tiring. Martin was doing well, but Megan and I were struggling. 15 kg is a lot to carry on terrain like that! Martin, Megan and I had packed all we would need to survive on our own. With food, first aid kit, cookware, water purification, etc. Catherine's bag was much lighter as she planned to get food at the towns we were going to pass through. I was trying to keep my costs down, thus, the weight.
It was my last time up in Scotland so I wanted to have an enjoyable, memorable hike. I had told all them this in my emails while we were planning our trek. So, I warned them that I'd like to take some photos along the way.
It was so pretty. Would have been nice to rest for 15 mins at a nice spot. But, I did my best not to delay everyone and took pictures quickly. I told them to keep going and that I'd catch up.
We passed a few gorgeous spots full of bluebells and one spot in particular where everyone wanted to enjoy for a few moments.
Passing through the forest and crossing creeks here and there, I smelled a familiar smell. But couldn't quite place it. Megan is very plant savvy and I asked her. She picked a white flowered weed and asked if that was it. I took a whiff... and yup! That's it. She said it was wild garlic and quite edible. We chewed on it for a bit. But, left us with awful breath. Ha!
She also taught me that you could eat stinging nettles. She said the tops taste the best and plucked a bunch for dinner.
We past Inversnaid and also a cave that was marked as Rob Roy's Cave on the map and then found a place to settle for the night. We didn't get to the end of the lake as we had hoped for, but after 19 km, we were tired. And both Megan and I had blisters. Ouch.

There was a little beach along the lake with a small creek trickling into it. Megan claimed the small little grassy island with a tree, rock and patch of bluebells to pitch on, where Martin and I pitched on the beach. Very nice spot. However, for some reason, Catherine was worried it was a flash flood area and we were going to die if we slept there. At first I though she was joking, as flash floods occur in areas where the ground isn't able to absorb the rainfall or gets too much that it can't absorb enough. This national park has regular, steady rainfall and doesn't have flash floods. Plus, it was a clear starry night in summer.  Megan called her boyfriend, since he has lived and worked in this area most his life on hydroelectrics. He said there are no flash floods in this region. He also checked the forecast for us and we were happy to hear that we'll be having spectacular sunny weather for the rest of the week. So, that was good news.
We made some dinner and I was ready for bed. I tried some of Megan's pasta she cooked up with the stinging nettles. It was like stewed spinach really. Tasted quite good. While trying to sleep, my nose was a bit stuffy and my throat felt irritated. What a bummer. I knew what that meant.
In the morning, my cold was full on. Yuck. Good thing I had tissue.
The sun was out, the sky clear and the ground was dry (no flash floods, ha ha).
After breakfast and packing up, we started out again. It was much easier going the next bit of the path. We past some old stone house ruin along the way and wasn't long before reaching the end of Loch Lomond. After crossing a slightly muddy area, and through a little wooded section, we started climbing up hills that were nice and open to our surroundings. Lots of bluebells all over the side of the hills facing us. So beautiful.
My friend Sinclair was planning on meeting us along the path at some point. He spent the night near Crainlarich and was heading south to intersect us so we could hike a little ways together.
We ended up meeting him at the pub in Beinglas Farm. They all got something to eat besides me. I just ate from my food supply. Megan ate all her lunch and Martin only half, so she ate his as well. Unreal how much that girl could eat and be the size of a toothpick!!
Catherine went to socialize with other people in the pub as she does like to chat up the fellow trekkers, while Megan and I took a little time to tend our very sore and badly blistered feet. Sinclair took one look and couldn't believe we were still walking on them. I told him it was painful for about 20 mins once we start walking, but after that they start to numb. It's more when the blood gets back into them that they hurt.
He told us that the next 6 miles is going to be a lot of up and down and will be very hard on our feet. Catherine wanted us to get to the Bridge of Orchy by evening which was another 30 kms from where we were. No way Megan and I could make that in our states. Plus, it just wouldn't be enjoyable.
Martin and Catherine were faster paced than Megan and I. We were a great match together. However, we pushed ourselves as much as we could to keep all company happy. I had suggested if Catherine and Martin wanted, they could head off together and Megan and I would stick together so everyone can be happy with the pace of the trek. But, they both wanted to stick with us, even though we were slower.
So, Sinclair suggested that he give us a ride there. I really didn't want to do that. The whole point of the trip was to enjoy the scenery of Scotland. I'd be cheating myself of that and of accomplishing something I've been planning for the past couple months of hiking the trail. But, I couldn't just think about me, I had 3 other people to consider.
Megan and I looked at the map and tried to see what we could do. After a bit of deliberation, we came up with the idea to give Sinclair some of the weight we carried in our pack that we wouldn't need until we got to the Bridge of Orchy and to get a ride to Tyndrum, where we would hike in from there. We'd be cutting out the harder part of the trek and 20 km. I felt defeated but if it would allow the rest of the trip to be enjoyable, then it was a sacrifice I had to make.
Martin decided from that point that he'll hop on the trail and continue on as he could make the 30 kms on his own and would meet us there. I thought Catherine would go with him, but she elected to go with us.
However, once in the car with Sinclair and we were approaching Tyndrum, she changed her mind and wanted to go with Sinclair to Bridge of Orchy. She is a social butterfly, and Sinclair was a new person so I think that was more exciting for her. There was a grassy area by the bridge there designated for campers so we planned to pitch there for the night and that we'd meet them in the pub or campsite.
On Megan and I went. The way marked trail was pretty much flat the whole 10 kms to our end point. It was amazing how much faster we went with lighter spirits and less weight. We thought it would take longer than it did. We could have maybe done 20 kms in a reasonable time, but that was behind us now.

We passed a farm with sheep and cattle in the valley before reaching our destination. Sinclair and Catherine were in the pub already.
We pitched our tents and went inside for some much needed drinks. Martin arrived some time later.
We met a few other trekkers and a nice local. This local man goes on day hikes regularly and gave us a few suggestions for upcoming tent pitches. He told us that Kingshouse in Glencoe had a designated grassy area and once in Kinlochleven, if we just start hiking up the hill past town, we hike through a forest and there will be a few spots in there that would be desirable. 
We enjoyed there rest of the evening with a few drinks and laughs with our new friends.
My cold was getting better. The following morning I felt more sprightly. It was great having the river by our camp to help wash up.
I sure was sad to say goodbye to Sinclair, but he had to head back home for work and to pick up his daughter. But, we planned for me to go stay at his place for a few days once I finished my trek and headed back south.
Megan and I were ready to set off before Martin and Catherine, so he told us to go on ahead and they'd soon catch up.
The scenery was beautiful. You could see where a glacier once sat in the dip of the hills opposite us and it was amazing to think there once was 3km thick ice that coated the land there.

Now, the moorland had streams, little stone bridges, little waterfalls, a river, lochs and mountains covered with heather, flowers and bracken. Would have been so nice to see everything in bloom along this trek. But, the heather blooms more in the later summer. And some of the vegetation were starting later this year from all the rain and cool weather. But, it was nice to see some flowers. And the birds sure sang sweetly.
Wasn't long before our companions caught us with us. Just when we were at a river near some houses. There was a nice couple that spent the night there and said they saw some red deer around. We were to keep an eye out for them, they may still be around to enjoy.
The 4 of us continued on. We had a small 10 minute snack break by the river before heading uphill and away from it. It was a lovely spot. Catherine then told us she was going to leave us and go home. Her husband was going to pick her up at Kingshouse. So she went on ahead. We told her to take care of herself and sorry it didn't work out and asked her to let us know she got home safely by text message if she could.

It was a shame that things didn't go differently, but when 4 strangers meet up and are on an excursion together every minute of the day, you never know what can happen. However, I think it lucky that the 3 of us got on as well as we did.
The next stretch was the Rannoch Moor. For me, it was breath taking! I loved it. Even though Sinclair describes it as a barren wasteland.

The mountains even had a little bit of snow at the top. And the sun's warmth was invigorating. We even saw a red deer... who stuck his tongue out at us! Cheeky!
We walked 20 kms in good time that day. Arrived at Kingshouse Hotel by 4 pm. The designated grassy patch behind the hotel for wildcamping was perfect for pitching. It can be difficult to find decent camping spots in bog land.
A river passed through and on the other side, a little wooded area gave shelter from prying eyes or weather. Not a bad spot to use as the privy. Only bushes around.

We stayed out in the open to bask in the sunshine. After pitching I did my laundry in the river and borrowed Megan's clothesline to hang it up to dry. Always good to have fresh clean underwear and socks!
After we all had a little rest and dinner we went into the pub for the evening and to have some drinks. We were noticing a trend here. It was becoming the West Highland Way pub crawl! Ha ha!
Before turning in for the night, Martin asked if we'd like to spend the next day resting. It would give our feet a break, for my cold to recover and give him an opportunity to do a day hike along Buachaille Etive Mor (a pyramid shaped mountain). We all thought that would be a great idea since the 3 of us really like it there. We would meet up at the pub for 6pm and treat ourselves to dinner there.
And Megan and I slept in. I mean, REALLY slept in. Until about one in the afternoon. Couldn't believe it! But did we ever feel better.
At dinner in the pub, we met a very clever border collie and his owner. The owner had taught him many tricks, including how to open doors, use the toilet, flush it and bring him a beer. It was great! Entertaining to watch him eat all the chips out of the chip bag too. And the owner was an interesting character himself. Loved to tell stories and laugh.
Come morning, we set out to climb the Devil's Staircase, a steep section going up one side of the valley to go over the hill and down into the next valley. Upon passing a pond in the bog, I found a very neat bog flower.
The staircase wasn't as difficult as we thought it would be. Actually, it wasn't that tiring, that zigzag trail. I think my body was acclimated to the daily treks and my bag weight. Plus the day's rest helped. My cold was pretty much gone. And of course, our packs get lighter as we consume our
food.
We had a little break up there, relishing the stunning landscape of valleys, hills and heather. Then we headed downhill into Kinlochleven.
Just as we were entering the village, all the white pollen falling from the trees looked like snow. It was so pretty. We crossed the bridge over the river that lead to Loch Leven and then continued along the trail, up into the forest to pitch our tent for the evening as we were suggested. Man, the lush green grass and sheltered area of the forest allowed the midges the haven they needed to flourish. And bother us like crazy! I was glad for the midge head net I bought. Though, it made it difficult to eat dinner with it on! Had to leave my mouth exposed while eating. We definitely got a few bites!
After dinner, we walked down to the local pub (of course). What's a hike without beer after! Only 15km that day, but well earned none the less.
Inside the pub, some younger group of guys had control over the jukebox and the music was pretty loud so we took our drinks outside to the picnic tables. One of the locals had a guitar and was playing lightly to himself at one of the tables. So we took the one beside him so we could listen. Wasn't long before 4 other people joined us. A lovely couple staying at the hotel there and 2 other locals who played guitar as well. That's one thing I really like about the pubs up here in small towns. Musical instruments either hang on the wall of the pub, or the pub owner has it behind the counter somewhere. If anyone plays, they can borrow the instrument to entertain. Very cool.
It sure was nice to hear some Scottish folk music. I really liked the song "Will ye go Lassie, go." Even Megan played a bit. It was a lovely evening.
And I learned of an amazing thing! One of the locals saw my feet (as I tend to take my boots and socks off once resting) and was shocked at the amount and sizes of my blisters. He gave me some blister cushions called "Compeed." It was fantastic stuff! Like a second skin. It doesn't roll up in your socks and come off with sweat. And lots of comfort and relief. I was very grateful to him.
Next morning, I went to the little outdoor shop to buy some more Compeed before we carried up the hill and onto our last hike of 23 kms to Fort William. The section was similar to the trail leading to Kingshouse. We passed a ruin of a stone house and sheep shank. Highlanders once lived here and tended their sheep. It was used to be a main road back in those days before paved roads were constructed. Quite a ways to go from town to town. But beautiful.
We had about 1/3 of our walk in sunshine, but we could see clouds ahead. Looked like rain over Ben Nevis.
As we got closer to Glen Nevis, we started walking through thicker forests before finally coming down towards the main road and arriving near the Ben Nevis visitor centre. Only another 3km before we finally made it to Fort William and our end of our trek.
Yay! We made it! And with enough time to catch a bus back to Glasgow where Megan invited us to spend the night. She was wanting to get home and check on her 2 cats.
Since it was raining, Martin and I decided to take her up on her offer. We picked up some dinner once in Glasgow before catching the local transit to her place. Sure was great to be able to shower. And to tend my feet. Wish I knew I wasn't supposed to try to peel off the Compeed before I attempted it! Pulled my skin right off! Ouch, that stung something fierce! Megan was laughing, "you're not supposed to take it off silly. It will came off on it's own." Thanks, now you tell me! Lol.
After a nice deep sleep and breakfast, we said goodbye to Martin as he was driving home. After that, I got packed up and Megan walked me to the bus stop where I caught the bus to Edinburgh. Sure was going to miss her. We got along great.
I arrived at the city centre and Sinclair met at the bus station. We went to his place just off the Royal Mile to drop off my things. We went to a nearby tavern for a pint and people watched as I caught him up on the last couple days of my trek. After, we picked up his youngest daughter Isla and picked up a couple groceries. I made some burritos for dinner for them.
We made plans to meet up with John the next day and go camping out on a beach.
In the morning, Sinclair had to do a few run arounds for his other daughter, his son and picking up groceries,  but wasn't long before we made our way to our camping destination. John met us there at Tyninghame Beach.

 It was a pleasant walk though a wooded forest before coming to the beach. We found a nice spot to pitch our tents near some shelter from the rocks. We had some tea and enjoyed the sound of the sea. John and I had a nice walk down the beach to the point, where Isla and Sinclair played a bit of soccer. 

The sand on the dunes were sparkling in the sunlight. It was so beautiful to watch. It was pretty windy, so some people were out on body boards. On the hills at the end of the beach, you could see a yellow block of land. Rapeseed, used to make oil for cooking. Seen a lot around Britain. But adds a nice colour to the landscape.
Once we got back, we made our dinner. Sand burgers, hmmmm. Lol. The wind kept picking up and getting in our patties when Sinclair and I were making them. A little crunchy, but still good. 
More soccer and Sinclair did a bit of filming with his video camera after dinner. Isla is mad about soccer. Talks about her favourite team all the time, and loves to play. At 13 years of age, she has a ton of energy. Hard to keep up with her!
We had a nice fire to cozy up to for the evening. The driftwood put out lots of heat, so we were quite comfortable.
During the early hours of the morning, I could hear the waves lapping at the shore... quite loudly. I unzipped my tent to poke my head out, and not an arms length away was the waterline! I stayed up for about 30 mins to make sure it was as high as the tide would go. Fortunately, it was. That was close.
Once we were all up, we had a lovely bacon and eggs breakfast with fruit. Delicious! I had a last meander along the shoreline, checking out some tide pools before packing everything up. John invited us over for dinner at his place for the following evening before I headed off again. 
On our way back home, Isla got dropped off to hang out with her friends and Sinclair and I just took it easy for the remainder of the day. We watched a movie in the evening.
The next day, Sinclair had to work and Isla went to school, so I walked around the city. One last look at Edinburgh before leaving the country. I bought myself a little souvenir, a Scottish thistle pendant with a Celtic knot on the bottom. I was quite happy with it.
We had a wonderful dinner at John and Linda's. It was so nice to finally meet John's wife. She was a lovely woman and made me feel at home right away. Almost like I've known her for some time already. Though, I suppose in a way, I have with John's emails. It was a fantastic way to end my last night with some of my favourite people. John and Sinclair are family to me, and I love them dearly. Will be missing them greatly now that I'm moving on with my travels.