Wellington - Nelson - Abel Tasman

Giovanni and I left for Wellington at 8:45 am on Sunday. It was cloudy so we didn't get to see much of the mountains in Tongariro Park. But it was a nice drive through there. The plantation were multiple colours of red, blackish brown and yellow. Mostly smaller bushes or grass that can survive the harsh weather conditions. Really neat. There were signs along the way posting that the military uses those grounds for training so you see "Danger Explosions!" signs. No one was training when we drove though. But would've been neat to see in the distance.We stopped in Foxton at a small cafe for lunch. Giovanni wouldn't take any money from me for gas so I bought him lunch.

Once we got to Wellington, we dropped off the rental car and got a complementary lift to our hostel, the Wellington Downtown Backpackers. Almost all the hostels in the city didn't have great reviews because the buildings were so old, large and busy, and not kept up so well on cleaning. But, ours was ok. It was 6 floors with the 1st floor being the bar, cafe, kitchen, lounge, and TV lounge. It was a good size. Giovanni had his own room, where I was in a dorm so we agreed to meet up later to watch the rugby game (France vs Canada) in the bar later. And no, Canada didn't win, but they did rather well since France is a stronger team. I went to bed after the game and we planned to meet up for dinner the next day at 6 pm.

In the morning, I checked out the shops looking for a new pair of convertible pants seeing how mine are quite tattered and it was pouring rain. Can't believe how long I took, 4 hours! I went to every outdoor shop and went back and forth through town and finally found a pair that fit decently in Macpac. A bit big in the waist, but came with a belt so I can work with that for now. It's grey too, which is the colour I wanted. Now when they get wet, it won't be transparent like my beige one ;)

I spent the rest of the afternoon in the museum, Te Papa. It's free admission and 4 floors. What a great place! I thought it wouldn't be that big seeing how it's free, but it was fantastic! 3 hours wasn't enough time. I learned how to do the Haka, read about the geologic activity (volcanoes, glaciers, rivers, ect...) and the pants and animal exhibits. They even had a colossal squid on

display. I real one preserved in formalin! One thing I really got a kick out of was a story about the repopulation of a flightless parrot, thought to be extinct the last 70 years, that they have discovered and now rehabilitating. They were trying to collect semen samples and the males

kept landing on people's heads to ummm, how to put this... make love. So they made a helmet that looked like a honeycomb made of silicon and called it the "ejaculation helmet" Too funny! Too bad it didn't work, guess the parrots preferred the hair!

The other floors were more historical talking about the Moari people and the immigrants and how New Zealand came to be.

Giovanni and I met up for dinner and went to Hell's Pizza. It was great! Nice thin crust and not super greasy. He was leaving for the South Island the next day to go to a rugby game so we spent the evening chatting and then said our goodbyes. He just wanted the company, such a sweet man!

The next day I went on a Lord of the Rings tour with Wellington Movie Tours. Yes, I know, a bit nerdy, but hey, you have to do it at least once! The guide Ted was wonderful! He played little movie clips in the van so we new what landscape we would be seeing and he even brought a laptop to the sites where he'd freeze the picture and point out all the details. It was neat! He even brought props so we could dress up and reenact the movie scenes! Hey, if your going to do this, might as well go all the way and be a fool! And what fun! We all had a good laugh. We saw the sites for Helm's deep/Minas Tirith (same spot, just a gravel quarry), Isengard, Rivendell (that's where I dressed up as Legolas doing his poster shot, lol), Hobbiton woods for the "get of the road" and "shortcut to mushrooms"scenes.

There were some others as well. Couldn't believe how much was done in

Wellington, even just on their hill, Mount Victoria. We ended the tour going to see the location of the studios and Weta Cave. Weta Cave was mostly just a shop to buy old props and souvenirs and watch a video were you can learn about what they do for all the special effects in the movies. They were filming at the studios making the prequel "the Hobbit" and we saw the stunt man for Bilbo (and Frodo in LOTR) walk in. He's from Kenya apparently. Then we drove around the coastline a bit before being dropped off.During dinner, I bumped into Sally from Australia whom I've bumped into 2 other times (met in Rotorua and again in Thames). We watched the rugby game together (Italy vs Russia) and then headed to bed.
I was heading to the South Island the next morning so I got up early to take the cable car up to the Botanical gardens. It would have been great later in the spring when everything is in bloom, but I did see the alpine parrot, the Kea, up in the trees. There were 4 of them. They're green with orange feathering under their wings. I had a nice view of Wellington as well. It's such a beautiful place. Not too big, and most of the housing is on the hillsides surrounded by trees or along the beachfront. I wish I had more time there. But, had to move on so I caught the ferry.

Guess who I bumped into on the ferry? Sergio and Andreas from Taupo! They were going to the same town as me. We caught up and decided to stay at the same hostel in Nelson together. Andreas wanted to do the same hike as me in the Abel Tasman Coast Track, but Sergio didn't have any gear. Once on the bus, Andreas and I did a bit of plotting and figured out our plans for the track and how to get Sergio to join us, I had a 2 person tent so there was room for him with me and all we had to do was hire a sleeping bag and mat for him. We both had cookware so that wasn't a problem.
We checked into our hostel, The Bug, once we arrived in Nelson. Anthony, the owner, picked us up at the bus stop and he was very helpful with suggestions on who to get supplies from and which company to use to get us to Abel Tasman. The hostel was small but perfect. Plenty of kitchen space (there were 2), lots on bathrooms and free internet and bikes! That was a major bonus!
The three of us grabbed bicycles and headed into town to the Rollo's Outdoor store to buy fuel for the stoves, dehydrated food and rent gear for Sergio. Once that was sorted, we went to the I-site to book our bus and water taxi ride. We chose Aquataxi as they were the cheapest and

offered pick-ups at our hostel, drove us to Marahau (the starting point of the Abel Tasman Coast Track) and had the water taxi to drop us off at our starting point. We decided to start our trek at Totaranui near the end of the track and to hike back into town. That way we'd sleep 3 nights and hike for 4 days. We then booked our chosen campsites with the DOC (Department of

Conservation), went to the grocery store to buy light lunches that our dehydrated food didn't cover and start the long process or reorganizing our backpacks. We had to leave what we didn't need behind in storage at the hostel so we wouldn't have to carry so much. Lighter is better!

I still ended up having my bag around 14 kgs. Then we all took showers, as it'll be a few days till our next one! Won't we be a pleasure on the bus on the way back, lol!

Our bus picked us up early in the morning and we arrived at the Aquataxi office around 9 am. There, we loaded onto the boat on a trailer, pulled by a tractor. They drove to the beach and backed into the ocean until the water was almost at the tractor drivers feet and launched us off.
Our captain showed us a little point where some of the birds nested on a cliff side and then we headed up the coast stopping at a couple beaches to drop people off for day hikes. We spotted some dolphins and watched them for a little while. There were about 6 or 7 of them. Then we went by Tonga Island to see the fur seals and their pups lounging on the rocks. And finally we

got off at our stop, Totaranui. We had a small snack and since our first campsite was only 1.5

hours away, we decided to stash our bags under some brush and hike farther north to Anapai bay. It was a nice hike, good to get warmed up. The beach was amazing! Nice golden sands with turquoise coloured sea, as is the whole coast. Such a beautiful place. We ventured around a while and then headed back to pick up our bags, eat another snack and head to our campsite at Waiharakeke Bay. They weren't kidding about the sand flies... they're everywhere and ravenous! Thanks goodness for insect repellent.

That was our easiest hike for the trip. Once we got to our site we pitched up our tents, got our beds ready then went back to the

beach. We had it all to ourselves. It was lovely! We found

all sorts of shells.Even a Paua shell! They're brilliantly coloured! Love them. I also found a seahorse skeleton. Crazy. We goofed around taking pictures and exploring, collected some fire wood, then as it started to get dark, walked across the fresh water stream to reach our campsite in amongst the trees. No one else was at our camp. It was great!

Andreas and I boiled some water for our dehydrated dinners of spaghetti bolagnase and shepherds pie and Sergio made the fire. The dinners weren't too bad. I liked the spaghetti best. While we were cooking, we saw 2 possums around us. They were interested in the smell of food, but kept their distance. We tried to get photos of them, but they ran from the light so we couldn't get any. Except Andreas did get one where you can just make the possum out. The night was fairly cold and the clouds were coming in so we didn't see too many stars. Once the fire started getting smaller we went to bed.

What a chilly night! So glad I bought my thermal merino underwear to sleep in and had my sleeping bag liner. It kept me toasty. My Exped air mat kept me very comfortable and with my Lamina sleeping bag, I was super cozy. I researched well and am

very happy with all my camping gear. I still need some practice with the stove though... took me forever to boil the water. He he

he.

Sergio was the first to get up the next morning (nothing new there, that guy's an early riser!). I lingered in bed for a few minutes but then heard Andreas getting up too and thought... ah hell, might as well get up. We boiled water for our water bottles for the day as well as our breakfast. Not my favorite in the dehydrated foods, the traditional breakfast. Don't think I'll get that one again. Once we were all packed we headed for our longest day of hiking at 9:30am, to Bark Bay campsite. We had to time our day as we had 2 tidal crossings to make and within 3 hours of low tide. Our first crossing was the longest on the track. Awaroa inlet takes

about 20 mins to cross.

It was full of muddy sections and streams up to our knees so we were bare foot. The shells were hard on the feet though. Once at the other side, we had a snack and carried onto the next crossing at Onetahuti. That was a short stream we went over and had a nice long beach to walk on before getting back onto the track. We stopped here for lunch which was good for me since I had blisters between my toes, on my heals and under my pads of my feet.

I thought, why is this happening? My shoes are well worn in and I've done lots of hiking without blisters before. Then it dawned on me. The salt was still on my feet, since I didn't rinse them with fresh water and acted like sand on my feet, rubbing with the moisture and all the extra weight of my gear... Ah ha. So... lesson learned. Rinse feet!!.

We stopped for an hour, (mostly because I needed it, the guys were so patient!) and I cleaned my feet and bandaged my sores. Ready to go for another 2 hours.We made it to Bark Bay around 4 pm and set up our beds. Firewood was already provided so we just rested from our 5 hours of tramping and as the sun set, we started a fire. Once we had that going, we made dinner. Roast chicken and turkey a la king. The roast chicken was delicious!! For me, that's the winner. There was another man hiking on his own, so I invited him to join our fire to warm up. He was from England and chatted with us for the evening. Andreas was off taking night photos and Sergio went to bed early. The night sky was clear and full of stars and Andreas gave me lessons the night before on how to take long exposure photos for the sky so we set up my camera too and I got a couple. Amazing stuff. I was super excited to learn how to use my camera more. He was a great teacher!

We had our usual routine in the morning and headed off to Anchorage campsite. It was another beautiful sunny day, but we did see some clouds coming and heard it might rain. But we were

prepared and ready for it. The cloud came, and went with no rain. Sunny again! Yay!

We had to cross a suspension bridge over an inlet to Falls River and as we looked down, we saw 2 fur seals playing in the water. What a joy to watch! They were doing acrobatics, both under and above the water, dashing , jumping, racing, twisting and somersaulting in the water. They were enjoying themselves :)

Once we got to Torrent bay, seeing how the tide was out, we thought, lets do the tidal crossing rather than go around the estuary. Sergio was well ahead of Andreas and I (something we were getting used to, man that guy's in shape!) as I made sure to wear my sandals this time as it would take 15-20 mins and there were lots of shells. Andreas just had his flip flops and when were were near the other side of the shoreline the mud got really sticky and deep and he got stuck! It was the funniest thing watching him try to break free. I could even hear Sergio laughing. Lol, good times.

Didn't take long from there to get to Anchorage, and we made it in 3 hours instead of the 4 they post. Thank goodness for that. My feet were better that day, but still a bit uncomfortable. There was a village there so we had to go to the other end of the beach to reach the campsite. The village is completely run on solar power and there is no road there so all the residents have to use boats to get into town. Maybe a nice summer retreat, but for permanent residency... I think I'll pass.

Once all settled in, we had lots of time in the afternoon to enjoy the sunshine. We were hoping to enjoy lunch on the beach but the wind decided to pick up and blow sand into our food so we moved back under tree cover at our campsite. Yumm, crunchy lunch, glad I didn't break any teeth.

After, Andreas wanted to go to a viewpoint (great more hiking, lol) , but Sergio wanted to stay behind and read, so just us two went. When we saw the sign saying it was almost an hour one way, I thought, maybe we could just go see the bay around the bend as it's only 20 mins? He agreed with me so we checked it out. Another nice golden beach, but this one was blocked from the wind :) We perched ourselves on a rock and enjoyed the view as we chatted about our childhoods.

When we got back, we thought we should think about a fire soon so we checked out the wood situation. Looked like we had to chop our own wood. We spent about an hour doing that. The axe was dull and neither of us were overly experienced in wood chopping. I'm ok using small axes for kindling but am nervous of the big axes. I'm scared that I'll miss my target and swing the axe right into my shin. Always have had that fear. Sergio actually was great at it. He got most of our firewood chopped. Told him he'd make a great lumberjack. Just needed a plaid shirt ;)

We had a roaring fire that night, the best one we've had, and ate our last 2 dehydrated dinners, pasta vegetariano and chicken curry (with cashews, Andreas is a cashew fanatic!). The curry would have been great if it wasn't spicy. But the taste was nice. We played around with our cameras again with the night sky and had an early night. It sure was nice that all 3 of us had fun cameras. Sergio used to do photography, so he was more subdued with his picture excitement, but he had loads of patience for us.

Sunday was our last hiking day. We walked 4 hours to get into the town of Marahau to catch our bus back to Nelson. Since the bus wasn't until 4:30 pm, we had lots of time and took it slow. Which was good since we had a couple steep hills to climb. It was nice

overlooking the bay as we left since the trees changed to a drier climate on the hilltop. We had some great views up there with the open areas.

We stopped at Apple Tree Bay for lunch which was about halfway. After eating, I explored around the rocks and found a cave. Well, I just had to check inside so I went back to my backpack to get my flashlights. Sergio was looking at me funny when I grabbed them seeing how sunny it was, and I just laughed and told him about the cave.

It was small inside but fun to check out. There were a whole bunch of giant crickets that lived in there and had a webbed nest as well. I got out and convinced the boys to check it out too. What fun!

Then we carried on and made it to town to the Aquataxi shop. We checked in and took our shoes off and put our feet up. Wow, what a great few days! Lovely beaches and nice trekking, not too difficult but enough to get you sweating and tired. We were all looking foreword to a shower.

We got dropped back off at The Bug in Nelson and went out to dinner after our showers. Andreas forgot he had his birthday on the hike so I bought him a beer to go with our roast beef dinners. What a great dinner, so nice to eat a hardy meal after eating light the last few days. After that, we just head to bed.

This morning we did our laundry and took the day to ourselves since we missed the bus leaving town . We slept in.

We arranged our travels for the next day and I took out a bike and disposed of the rest of my stove fuel and checked out the town. I went up a short hill (20 mins hike) to the summit to reach the landmark of the centre of New Zealand. Then I went to get groceries and make dinner. Chicken and broccoli.

Tomorrow we all catch the same bus in the morning, Andreas and I are both going to Punakaiki, but Sergio is heading to Franz Josef. It's going to be weird splitting up.