Friday 14 September 2012

Oban & Isle of Mull

After looking around town for parking, I found free parking in a lot by the recreational sports centre. It was up on the hill from town, but I didn't mind. One of the first sites I was going to look at was up on the hill anyway. McCaig's Tower.
The tower was built in tribute to the McCaig family. There was a beautiful, well maintained garden inside and a great view overlooking the fishing village of Oban and the islands off in the distance. It was very quiet up there and I took a half hour just enjoying the peace. I loved seeing the ocean. And I knew I was lucky, as the sun had made an appearance. According to the locals, that can be a rare thing in this seaside town.
I made my way down into the village to wander the shops. Got a local map from the info centre for orientation. Of course, one of the first stops I did was to go into the chocolate factory. Had to buy a few to try. Hmmmm, and they were good.
I walked along the esplanade to Dunollie Castle. This castle was dated back to the 15th century and built by the MacDougall clan. It has long since been abandoned for Dunollie house just downhill from the ruins. It used to be bigger than what is now seen. There were 3 floors, a dungeon (which hasn't been found) a chapel and 2 great halls. A settlement of people would have lived surrounding the castle, tending crops, net fishing in the sea, tending cattle and fighting for the chief when needed. The 5th chief, John of Lorn, was a supporter of King Edward II against Robert the Bruce and as a result, did have the castle besieged. So, the castle had been restored a couple times.
I headed back into town, bought an adaptor to charge my electronics and batteries with the car's lighter socket, had lunch and then made my booking for a tour the next day on the Isle of Mull.
Instead of staying at the campsite, I drove south out of town and found a nice resting site along Loch Feochan. I made dinner and decided this would be a good place to wild camp. There was fresh water running into the inlet so I could use that for washing up. Worked for me. Also was able to find a few spots along the shore to sit and look out on the water.
The next morning, I parked my car at the rec centre again, and went to catch the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry over to Craignure on the Isle of Mull. I was picked up at the pier by my tour with Isle of Mull Wildlife Expeditions. My guide was an ornithologist (bird specialist) and had been running tours on Mull for many years. We had a comfortable van and more then enough binoculars to go around for wildlife watching.
We hadn't driven far along the Sound of Mull before finding about a dozen porpoise frolicking out in the bay. I've never seen so many together at a time. They are usually in smaller numbers. A great sight to see. Our guide, David Woodhouse, identified a bunch of sea birds and tried to explain to us how to tell the difference between a Shag and a Cormorant out at a distance. The Shag is slimmer and when it dives, it clears the water where the Cormorant only half clears it. Doesn't look quite as graceful. After watching a few out on the rocks, I could see what he meant. Sure wouldn't have picked that up on my own... takes a trained eye.
We then continued along the coast until David spotted an otter. A coastal otter. The coastal otter is the same species as the freshwater otters inland. Main difference (besides the obvious, one in the sea, the other in fresh water) is that the coastal otters are up and about during the day. The freshwater otters are more nocturnal. The sea otter in North America is a different specie all together.
Hmmm, so maybe I did hear otters in the river by my tent the other night in the Trossachs...
The otter was diving about and catching all kinds of things just off shore in the kelp beds. We were all excited to see him come ashore, shake himself off, eat a fish and groom before he scurried off for cover. Cut little fella.
We continued driving, keeping our eyes open but also enjoying the gorgeous views of all the valleys, rivers, coastline, craigs, waterfalls and wooded areas. We saw a few seals lazing on some rocks and 4 White-Tailed Sea Eagles. Two adults were resting on a tree branch and two juveniles were circling in the air. Saw many buzzards as well. But they weren't as impressive as the eagles.
David said we were very lucky to see 4, as they aren't as commonly spotted. He mentioned the best time to see birds of prey is after a rainfall and that they tend to fly against the wind. Using the wind to keep them stationary in the air for a good look around. Also, key spots to find the eagles were tree tops (well, duh) and up on craigs sheltered by the wind. No Golden eagles for us that day, but that's alright. Maybe next time.
Along the main roads through the mountains, we had a great panoramic view of 3 lochs in a glen. It really is a pretty island. So much to see.
The food on our tour was great as well. Homemade soup and sandwiches, with cake, tea, coffee and biscuits. I believe our guide said his wife made the food. Even though I was much younger than everyone in the group, we all got along well and I really enjoyed my time. David dropped me back off at the pier so I could catch the 5 pm ferry back to Oban. Once I arrived on the other side, I grabbed a sandwich for dinner and drove back to the same spot I spent the night before at Loch Feochan.
This morning, I head off to Glencoe. Looking forward to seeing this place, as it's been raved about!

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