Torridon & Stoer

From Kyle of Lochalsh, I drove to Achintee then followed a secondary road (A896) to Torridon. I stopped by Duncraig castle and also Shieldaig for a stroll alongside the coastal shore. I sure love the smell of the ocean!
Once I was getting close to Torridon, all the mountains started appearing. What a fantastic drive. Torridon was a small (really small) village situated at the end of a bay, nestled at the bottom of the mountains. It is known for it's stormy weather. Very strong winds come in through there.
And it was pretty gusty when I arrived. There's a camping area at the beginning on the town just beside a hostel. It had full facilities (yes, a shower!!) and it was completely free to pitch on the grass. I believe it's the only camping spot with facilities that is free. It's a small grassy pitch area, but nothing to complain about there!
I set my tent up quickly so that it didn't blow away on me. Whew, that was a tricky task. Even with one peg anchored, it tried to rip off the ground before I could get the second one in. Had to work fast and time the wind gusts.
Once all settled, I took a walk, following the Red path (only 3km) past the Red Deer Park (where I passed many lazy stags) to the beach. There was a small area on a grassy hill on the beach that was once used as an outdoor church. Stones laid all around for people to sit on and a higher level on the boulder provided a natural podium.
I watched the sunset, enjoying the salty smell and sound of lapping waves. Very soothing. Then back to camp for dinner and sleep.
The next day was very windy again. But it helped blow the dark rainy clouds, making the rain come and go quickly. During breakfast, I talked with my tent neighbour, Adam. He lent me one of his walking guides for the day so I could find an easy trail to hike. My knee started to act up a bit and I figured it would be a good idea to rest it. But, (Torridon being as pretty as it is) I wanted to at least explore a little bit. So, I was grateful for the guide.
There was also a father and son across from us. They were organizing their rock climbing gear for the day. Looked like they were going to brave the winds and do some climbs. Brave... or foolish? Hmmm, I wouldn't climb with all the rain and wind. Not the best conditions. However... seeing how they came all this way, I can see why they were going. At least we can all make sure we're all back at camp in the evening. Keep an eye on each other.
I needed petrol before I could explore anywhere so I drove to Kinlochewe, to the closest gas station. Loved the scenery. So much hiking here, It's incredible!

On my way back, I chose an easy walking path from the guide to Loch Coulin and Loch Clair, right across from Beinn Eighe. It was mostly flat, starting along the loch to woodland, then opens to moorland and bog and the second loch before looping back to the highway. It was about 9km long. Many birds around. Very relaxing.
After, I backtracked to Torridon and drove to Lower Diabaig, a tiny fishing village. A very narrow, winding road with numerous blind corners and hills. Glad I made it there, as my rental car doesn't have much gusto and with the steep hills, it struggled to climb up in first gear.
At the pier, I met a nice fellow cycling. Also, bumped into Adam who was fishing. We three decided to meet up at camp later for dinner at the local pub.
Glen Torridon had some great colours. All the bracken were turning from green to golden yellow and red. Purple heather were still amongst the landscape, creating such an array of colours. I would have loved to explore this area more, but given that my knee was talking to me a little from all the hiking I had been doing, and the fact that I didn't have any information an the trails beforehand, it was something I left for the future. So, just little walks around.
Saw a waterfall at the start of the Beinn Alligin trail. This would be a spectacular hike. I roamed just the beginning of the trail, and looking at the view of the valley beckoned to me "come and see." Sigh, yes, next time.
After, I met the two men at camp and we piled into my car and drove to the local bar/hotel for dinner. The food at the Torridon Inn was amazing! Glad it was too, considering it was the only place nearby to eat out. We enjoyed some good laughs and a couple drinks.
After packing up the next morning I had a leisurely drive back to Kinlochewe, enjoying the plants of the moorland. Being a higher elevation, the cooler damp climate allow the vegetation to grow. The acidic soils nourish these particular plants allowing extensive covering of the variety of plants. They have free draining ability, merging areas into bog land. In bogs, all the flooding prevents the oxygen from the atmosphere getting to the soil, causing the plants to decompose slowly creating peat. The peat is then dug by humans for use of fuel or gardening. So cool to think how everything is linked together.
I then stopped along Loch Maree. A very long lake with many picnic spots. Saw a sign for Victoria Falls, so of course I had to see it. Just a small little fall though.
Next, I arrived in Gairloch. After asking the visitor centre for a nice walk, I stopped at the golden sandy beach surrounded by dune grass near the golf course. Few people were there that day. Just walking their dogs mostly.

I was recommended to walk the Flowerdale waterfall trail. I passed a pony trekking centre, seeing all the horses grazing in the grass. Continued following a gravel pathway to a stream. I think, I saw the waterfall. I wouldn't have called it a waterfall as it was only 12 ft high really, but whatever. I walked the loop around to go up to a valley then come back down along the other side of the stream back to the car park. It wasn't very exciting, but at least I had a stretch.
I drove through Poolewe (which looked like a really nice area to camp), and took another break in Ullapool. Seeing how it was dinner time, most of the stores in this fishing village were closed but for the tourist shops. I popped into a little market to grab something for dinner, walked around the town, then drove to Knockan Crag.
By the time I arrived, it was late. Luckily, a sign said overnight parking was welcome at this little geological centre. The parking lot was empty so I found a nice protected spot and slept in the car. Nice to have bathroom facilities nearby.
This morning, after I had some fruit for breakfast, I walked to the display centre. There were computer screens and billboards with tons of information on the different kind of rocks, how they were made and shifted with the earth's plate movements.
The information was about Peach and Horne, two geologists who made leaps and bounds in discoveries to understand our planet. Some say their knowledge was as important as Charles Darwin's discoveries. The discoveries explained what happened when the earth collided and mountains formed. Explaining how older rocks were on top of newer rocks.
It was neat to learn that Scotland, once was near the south pole 600 million years ago. As it moved north, it had been underwater, then covered as a sandy desert, then erupting volcanoes and even a tropical rainforest. Eventually, it broke off from the American land mass to collide with European land mass to attach to England.
A walking path up the crag had info stops that explained what you were seeing in the rock formations and soil for plant growth. It was great. Even if you didn't have any previous knowledge of geology, you felt like a geology student on a field trip! Really well informed. I love geology, so of course I'd highly recommend this place.
Next pit stop was at Calda House and Ardvreck castle on Loch Assynt before branching off the main road and going to Stoer. Sometimes, even though a ruin is just another ruin, the setting is in such a lovely place, you can't help but take the time to appreciate the beauty of it.

Past Lochinver, I went to Clachtoll Beach. It had golden soft sand surrounded by tall dune grass and dark basalt rocks that protruded at an angle out of the sandy grains. Looked really neat. Highland cows were moseying along the beach as well, eating seaweed. A perfect place in the summer for swimming, sun bathing, camping and picnicking.

Stopping at the lighthouse, I parked my car and walked along the cliff edge to see the Old Man of Stoer. It was a lovely walk. Once I reached the 60 m sandstone pinnacle, I sat and watched the waves and Gannets flying over them. They were white with black tipped wings and had such beautiful yellow coloured heads. Gracefully gliding on the strong winds.
Once back in my car, I passed back though Lochinver. It sure had some lovely spots for photography with all the little tree covered islands on the lake.
Wasn't too long before I reached the small northern town, Durness. I pitched my tent at the Sango Sands Oasis Campsite. It was a big campsite. Lots of well kept grass on the ridge above the beach. Fantastic spot. They even had a bar and restaurant on the grounds. Perfect for a night cap!
Wester Ross is a beautiful area. Golden sandy beaches and purple heather moorland. I'm looking forward to seeing more of it tomorrow!