Aswan

Surprisingly, I wasn't as tired as I'd thought I'd be, getting up at 2:30 am for the 3 hour drive to Abu Simbel. The plan was to arrive for sunrise, but I think they get used to starting out a certain time and not really checking the sunrise times. After spending 45 mins waiting for the convoy our buses needed, the sunrise occurred while we were driving along the highway in the desert. So, that was moot.
Abu Simbel was great though. It has been relocated from the original site in the mountain side due to the Aswan High Dam being built. The dam was built to create Lake Nasser, a water reservoir and it would have submerged the Nubian monuments. So, they created an artificial hill and moved it there in the late 1960's.
Ramesses II built it to impress (or intimidate) his southern neighbours back around 1264 BC. It was constructed to honour the gods, Amun, Ptah and Ra. The 4 colossal statues are of the pharaoh himself and by the legs there's a few statues of his wife (Nefertari), mother, first daughter and first 2 sons. Hieroglyphics surround the monument as well as falcon statues at the base. The falcons symbolize the sky god Horus, thus also the sun and moon. The deity Ra is carved right above the temples entrance.
Once inside, there were two main chambers. The main hall had hieroglyphs of battles with prisoners captured and 8 large statues depicting Osiris, the god of the afterlife. The second chamber had beautiful scenes of offerings to the gods on the four tall pillars. Three hallways stretched out through the temple, each with walls lined with more scenes and written language of offerings. It was an impressive temple. Shame pictures aren't allowed. Guards patrol both in and outside the temples, making sure no damage or photos are taken. Outside photos are ok though.
The second smaller temple was dedicated to Ramesses II wife, Nefertari and the goddess Hathor, goddess of motherhood, love, beauty and music. The statues on the wall were about 10 feet high of both the pharaoh and his wife. Inside, the main hall had 6 pillars decorated with Nefertari playing an instrument with the gods. The vestibule had engravings of the pharaoh and his queen giving offerings, like the papyrus flower to Hathor. Many show the goddess as a cow. A few smaller chambers branched off the vestibule with more drawings of Hathor, Nefertari and Ramesses II. Remarkable temples the two of them. It was nice to see a temple dedicated to a queen.
After enjoying the view of Lake Nassier, I headed back to the van to meet up with the other tourists. There was a foyer that had all the information of the temples relocation. Following that was the bazaar. With tourism being slow in Egypt, the salespeople were very persistent. I would have liked to take my time looking at things, but with their harassment and a tight time schedule, I speed walked through.
On our way back to Aswan, our driver stopped so we could look at a mirage. Really neat. Sure does look like water due to the refection of the hills.
Once I was back at the hotel I went up to my room to take a nap before dinner. Only, I realized my belongings had all been moved around. At first, I thought maybe just housekeeping but decided to check some of the hiding spots I hid some extra cash. I was nervous about taking it all on my person while out at the tourist sites and some of the security boxes at reception looked shabby and broken so I thought since I didn't have too much with me, I'd hide it in multiple spots. And every single place was looted. Only money taken, nothing else at least. I could always get more out and make more money working, but it would have been very inconvenient for any of my travel necessities to go missing.
So, I ended up spending the rest of the afternoon reporting the theft to the managers and them going through their staff. My room had a double lock, and with no forced entry and the second deadbolt not relocked, I knew it was someone with a key to my room. My suspicion was either someone in reception or one of the managers, seeing how it was someone who knew my schedule, but they blamed in on housekeeping. Claiming they're the only ones with access to room keys (what a load of crock!). I really didn't think it was housekeeping. Those woman were extremely distraught and I believed their story. Something about the manager though... he was slimy. He bribed me for my silence to not go to the police by giving me half the money I lost and buying my dinner. I thought, well, seeing how the police here are useless and they wouldn't get me any money back, I might as well take what the manager was offering. Of course, I told the staff at Brothers Hostel who arranged my stay there as well as their local agent Yassen so they wouldn't recommend the Nubian Hotel again. Yassen told me he had someone else robbed there too. Shame that. At least there was no violence. And, it was my first time having a theft like that. Have to experience that at some point travelling I suppose.
I ended up having my dinner in a new room (why I was moved... I don't know. I was already robbed so whoever did it took what they wanted) with a tv where I watched a movie and went to bed early.
The next morning, Yassen picked me up and brought me to Hammada, my Nubian captain of my felucca ride. Hammada was a tall, thin young man with a wife and 2 children. He took over his grandfather's boat, the Mona Lisa, and now has his own business giving tourists rides up and down the Nile. I had 2 nights sleeping on the felucca and 2.5 days sailing. I wished I wasn't alone, it would have been more fun with a group of people, but Hammada was great company. He spoke english quite well and taught me how to count to 10 in Arabic. He made wonderful food on the boat and gave me 2 cushions with blankets to sit and sleep on. It was surprisingly comfortable. Many bugs along the water. Good thing I brought my deet. Unfortunately, I can't reapply while sleeping so each morning I woke up with new bites. They were more itchy than mosquito bites back at home, but not even remotely as itchy as the mango rash. They were easy enough to ignore.
The wind on our first day was almost nonexistent, so we just followed the current till we found a nice spot to port for the night. He had a narrow plank of wood he used to cross from the boat to the shore of Elephantine Island so we could stretch our legs and have bathroom breaks. It was really peaceful. I spent a lot of time reading this amazing book called 'Tears of the Desert' by Halima Bashir. It was a true story about this young black tribal woman who wanted to be a doctor living in Darfur, Sudan and having to survive through the genocide. It was heartbreaking and inspiring. One of my favourite books I've ever read so far. I cried a few times, so I had to fill Hammada in on what was happening in the book so he knew why it made me sad. He couldn't read english yet, so it was easier for me to just share the story with him.
On the second day, the wind was gusty so we travelled back down and made a stop on the Nubian island across from the Aswan port. Hammada's family lived here on Elephantine, and he invited me to their house for tea and lunch.
There, I met both his parents, his bother and his sister. We all had tea and his mom made us some lunch of bread, fish, rice, chicken and seasoned mixed vegetables. They were very kind. Hammada showed me his old room which is now a lounge room. The house was nice and cool, made of concrete to keep the sun's heat out. Some decorative rugs were on the concrete flooring to liven the place up. Cozy.
After, we walked around his village, saying hi to people (they're all so friendly here), seeing the gardens and farming as well as the area the men build and repair feluccas. Two were in the process of being built when we were there. Then we passed an archaeological dig site some of the German archaeologists were working on. One of the temples of Khum, the god of waters and creation. He filled me in on the history of the island and of his Nubian people. Elephantine was once the border between Egypt and Nubia so there was a large fort here that could be seen on the nearby mountain.
He was proud to be Nubian and I was sad to see how little they fare to the Egyptians. He was telling me how he never ports his felucca across the Nile at Aswan, only here on the island. When I asked why, he said the people of the village are peaceful and honest. All family. No harm would come to his boat where as in Aswan, the Egyptians were "always causing trouble." I could understand that. He knows the families on the island so it was safe, where Aswan is a much bigger town, full of strangers and some corrupt people (like at my hotel...*wink*).
While Hammada went to pick up a few more food items and cast off the boat to roam again, I watched some woman do their laundry in the Nile and a really big man shovelling dirt into sacks on his donkey, whom he then rode to his dumping site. Oh, did I ever feel sorry for that over worked donkey. The dirt was fine, it was the man riding him! I was surprised the donkey didn't collapse! Stoic creatures.
Amazing how many temples were once on this small island. While we coasted upriver, he showed me one of the nilometers (to measure the water level of the Nile. Interesting that the Nile level is higher in the South than it is in the North). There was a stone staircase that led down to the river from a corridor and the rocks down to the waters edge had inscriptions. I believe he said it was the temple of Satis, the protector of southern Egypt. I wasn't expecting that so it was a nice surprise to see floating along.
Children were swimming along the shores as well as paddling along on styrofoam boards. Three kids grabbed on to our felucca to go against the current so they could float back. Fun to watch them. Hammada also let me steer the boat. He gave me some mini lessons and I was in charge of getting us back to our port site for the evening.
Such nice sunny days, but hot. Glad we had a covered area to have shade on the boat. Hammada sang some songs for me in the evening and we talked about our lives. He told me some of the harder times he had, with the police and how he was glad they weren't patrolling anymore. One police officer would come to him while he was sailing and ask to see his papers. Once he showed him, he'd want a bribe otherwise would fine him or arrest him saying he either didn't have papers or that they were false. He had no choice but to give him some of his money as the police were so corrupt there wasn't anything he could do to fight them. Then, father down the Nile, another police officer would come and do the same. He said he was lucky if he had a 1/3 of the money he was paid to do his tours. So sad. I'm happy things are better for him now. He can provide for his family. Just another story of the reasons to the people's rebellion.
Such a nice night with the stars and watching the lights of the city and cruise liners. Couldn't believe how many cruise ships their were! Dozens in such a small area with little tourists. Don't know how they afford it.
I was very glad to have my ear plugs with me. One thing about sleeping on the water, all the noise bounces and travels quite a distance. And early in the morning, with the multiple mosques starting up their prayers at 5:00 am, I was so thankful for the ear plugs.
After breakfast, Hammada let me sail the boat back to his port at Elephantine Island and we caught the water taxi back to Aswan. Yassen met me there. Hammada and I said our goodbyes, and Yassen took me to his office until my train departure. His "office" was a desk inside his shop of playstations. Kids (who should have been in school) were sitting playing video games while we discussed my last couple days and what was to come. His associates were there as well and were very hospitable. They bought me lunch with a soda and played some local music for me. A nice way to wait for the train. Yassen walked me right to my seat on the train for my next destination, Luxor. Another man would meet me there and escort me to my new hotel and give me my itinerary.
The train ride wasn't too long. Two-three hours. It was nice travelling in the afternoon so I could see the view. See the Nile and villages along the way.
Once I arrived in Luxor, Mohammad (yes, very common name, lol) met me at the station with a taxi and took me to Sun Set Hotel. This hotel was very nice, clean and had good security. A metal detector at the doorway with 2 relaxed guards. I liked it right away. I think I needed a place like that after my experience at the last hotel. My room was lovely as well. I really was surprised at how nice it was for my budget. After dropping my bags in my room, Mohammad and I went over my plans. I had the rest of the day to myself and would see the East Bank tomorrow.
So after having a small walk around and getting some dinner from the market across the street, I'm going to relax the rest of the evening with a shower and a movie.