Gombe Stream & Mombasa

Grace took me to her coworker after lunch and I boarded the staff boat to Gombe Stream National Park. It took just over an hour to get there and people where curious about my story. so, I shared my adventure getting here. I met the chimp veterinarian, 2 chimp researchers, 3 house keepers (one with her baby) and the park warden. The park warden laughed at my tail and told me when I left I could catch the staff boat back to Kigoma and not to worry about paying any money for it. She also gave me a discount on my meals while staying at the rest house to try to make up for my inconveniences. Of course, she wouldn't let me argue and I didn't want to disrespect her gift, so I thanked her.
The scenery was absolutely stunning. Magnificent jungle over the hills and along the sides of Lake Tanganyika. I couldn't believe how clear the water was. For the world's longest freshwater lake, I was expecting it to be murky, with it bordering 4 different countries and all. But, it was breathtaking. And warm too. Shocking how warm it was.
When I arrived at the park, I got to have a room all too myself... actually, I was the only tourist! I met my guide Iddi, and the first thing he said after our greeting was "what happened to your bag?" I laughed, and told him all about it. I asked if there was a bucket and a brush so I could clean it. He offered to do it for me, but I insisted to do it myself. Wash my hands clean of the whole affair. He brought me a brush, large bucket and detergent and I went to the lake to start my cleaning. I washed all my dirty clothes, camping supplies and backpack. I was impressed with how clean my backpack became. I thought the red soil would stain more then it did.
After I had my dinner, Iddi explained our day for tomorrow about the chimp tracking and then I went for a swim in the lake. Couldn't resist! The evening was so clear and the stars were spectacular!
Baboons were all over the place in the morning. They like to try to get into the resting house because of the smell of the kitchen on the top floor. I met up with Iddi at 8 am and we headed out to find the chimps. It was a pleasant hike and I could see the Democratic Republic of the Congo directly across the lake. Many fisherman were out getting their daily catches further down from the park.
It didn't take long before we could hear the chimps.
When we arrived at the location, we were blessed with 3 different families. Some squabbling between them in the trees. Made for exciting entertainment. We sat down on the ground and watched them. I heard a rustling sound behind me, and Iddi whispered to stay still and to not to make direct eye contact. The next moment, a beautiful male chimpanzee walked past me and started up the tree across from me. So strong and graceful he was.
They didn't mind our presence at all. Just carried on their daily activities with eating, grooming, nursing, mating, talking and the occasional fighting. The researches were there as well, doing the same as us, only recording their observations. They come out every day to monitor them. That's why the chimps weren't bothered by us watching, they were used to it.
Iddi knew most of the names of the chimps and what family they belonged to. Knew their bloodlines as well. I asked how he could do that and he said, "I've been a guide here for years. They all have different features and personalities so I can tell them apart, just like people." He showed me the difference between some of them, told me their life stories, who their parents were, if they had mates and had babies. I was captivated by his knowledge. He spoke of them with love in his voice, like they were his other family.
We moved along here and there and came across 2 more families. Iddi was familiar with their routes so we could walk a ways ahead of them along the trails, sit down and they'd catch up and pass us. They moved nesting sites every day to avoid any predators. So they were very active.
One female named Parks liked people. She'd come quite close to us if we stayed still and liked to be photographed. Others were camera shy. Seemed like they knew what a camera was and would hide their face or turn it away from the camera. Funny.
After a few hours, Iddi took me to the Kakombe waterfall. Butterflies were all over the place and one really liked the salt on my small backpack. Kept landing on it. We also saw red colobus monkies up in a distant tree (keeping away from the chimps) and a giant centipede scurry by our feet along the trail. Their bite is very poisonous. Iddi was nervous about it and kept jumping around. He was amusing to watch.
He showed me the feeding station where Jane Goodall used to feed the chimps and learn their behaviour over the 15 years she was here from the 60's on. She used a metal box that had a cord attached so it could be opened from a distance. When opened, a banana would be waiting to be eaten, and she'd be safe inside the station to watch. Even now, so many years later, the chimps still come here to see if there's any food around.
Once back at the camp, I had another swim, packed up most of my belongings and had dinner. Iddi visited me again after dinner and said he'd take me to Kigoma the next day since he had 2 days off.
I checked into Mwanga hotel the following morning. Comfortable beds and standard hotel with pit latrines. It was close to the bus stand so we went there next to get my bus ticket for the following day. Iddi suggested I take a different route this time. I booked a ticket with Sumry for Kahama. He had a good friend who lived there and asked her to pick me up at the bus stop, take me to my accommodation and help me get a ticket to Arusha from there. His family lives in Moshi, so he's done this route a lot and said it's tarmac most of the way so it'll be faster. Plus, he knew what buses were reliable. Best to go with the luxury buses.
I bought him some lunch and then he was off to get a week's worth of groceries to take back to Gombe. I just relaxed the rest of the day.
In the morning, Iddi met me at the bus stand to say goodbye. He said his friend, Timna, would be waiting for me in Kahama and that she already booked and paid for my hotel room, taxi and bus ticket. I just had to pay her back. Timna didn't speak any english so he said we could call him anytime for translating and that he'd check in later to make sure that everything was ok with me.
This bus ride with Sumry was much more comfortable. There were very few extra people we picked up, had a bathroom break, a less bumpy road and was much faster than the others I'd been on. I arrived in Kahama in the early afternoon where Timna was waiting for me. She helped with my bags and took the taxi she had to my hotel. My room had it's own bathroom! Very nice. I reimbursed Timna and took her out to lunch. I had kuku wali (chicken & rice) and talked with the cafe owners and an older man at the table next to me. Learned a few more swahili words too.
After lunch, Timna called a friend of hers to translate for me, and she warned me to not talk to strangers here in town as there are many people who aren't nice and that she'd stop by later on to check up on me. Iddi warned me as well that this could be a dodgy town, so I planned to stay in my room the rest of the day.
However, I wanted to get Timna a gift for helping me. As I was pondering what I could get her and where to go to buy it, the older man from the cafe came into the common room. He was staying at the same hotel. We chatted and when I told him my plan to go shopping he offered to come along. That way, I wouldn't be alone and he could get a few things he needed. Problem solved.
As we were walking, we shared details about ourselves. Turns out he was well travelled himself. He'd been living in Europe for 22 years and travelled a lot of East Africa. When I asked what he did for a living he answered, "I work with powder." I thought, "powder? What kind of powder? Baby powder?" He responded, "No, you know, powder, coke." I kept my poker face on and said "Oh, I see. And you were able to travel with that job." Lol, I made casual conversation and he said he'd be happy to employ me so I could work for him. I laughed and thanked him for the offer and explained that I loved my work at home, working with animals. Keeps me out of trouble (and jail, lol).
I bought my gifts and we headed back to the hotel. I was ready to make tracks, but he still wanted to talk. So, I politely listened to him in the lounge. He still wanted me to work for him, but he made a new offer, I could be his wife. Wow, wife of a drug lord... let me think... ah, no. As soon as he ducked into his room, I took the opportunity to conceal myself in my room.
At 9:30 pm, I heard a knock on my door. I thought, oh no, he figured out what room I'm in, but then I heard a female voice call my name. Timna had come by to check in on me and Iddi was on her phone. She passed her mobile to me and Iddi asked how my day was. I filled him in and he said, "I told you strangers aren't safe there." All the 'I told you so' stuff, lol. He told me Timna's plans for me for the following morning for my bus. Then he said goodbye. I wished Timna "usiku mwema, lala salama" (good night and sleep well).
She came by at 6 am and took me to my bus, Mghamba Express, for Arusha. Another bus like Sumry. Yay! I gave her her ngeni (gift) with a big hug. And off I headed to Arusha. I loved seeing the rift valley again... and eating the yummy nut snacks!
I was stunned by the generosity I'd been given from the locals during my trip. The general population have very big hearts and just want you to be happy. I won't ever forget the people that helped me and gave me support and security.
I spent a couple days in Arusha and found that my friend Ryann was still in Mombasa. So, I took the Tahmeed bus across the border to Kenya. Saw some antelope and 1 giraffe along the way.
 I had a nice school principal named Yeya sit beside me. He told me about the parks, train line, villages, his and his wife's town growing up and the "slums" in Mombasa. It was really interesting. Almost like a guided tour. Once we got off the bus, he bargained a tuk tuk for me (a 3 wheeled motorcycle with a cabin) and I checked into Nirvana Backpackers, across from Nyali International Hotel. Ryann left a note for me that everyone was at a pub. The owner offered to give me a ride there when I was ready because she was going to join them. It was a lot of fun meeting new friends and to see Ryann again. I joined in dinner and had a couple Tusker beers (named after the elephant that killed a man at the brewery). Late at night, half of us went home and the rest went out to a bar, to continue the party.
Over my time there, I went swimming at the beach at Nyali hotel (which was similar to Zanzibar but not as nice), walked around Mombasa town and bought fabric for a dress, went to a tailor who took my measurement to custom make a top, skirt and pants, learnt to cook a nice pesto penne, watched a couple movies and went out bar hopping. The night we went out, everyone at the hostel went out, as we normally do (it's better to go in groups anywhere, plus, more fun!) to a fancy restaurant for dinner and drinks. Then we went to a bar that had dancer's performing. Sorry no photos, didn't want to risk the camera, and we weren't allowed to take photos anyway. The dancer's were doing all sorts of acrobatics and the flash could blind them. But they were amazing! Hip hop dancing with african moves, fantastic! Then, we went to another club known as a ladies bar. Lots of old white men picking up the kenyan prostitutes. But, it was a friendly atmosphere with good music and inexpensive drinks. Just had to watch yourself on the dance floor. The prostitutes will dance with you and may try to steal what's in your pockets. Anytime someone came up to Ryann and I, we'd just go back to our table and sit down with our friends. Unless our one local friend (an off duty prostitute our hostel owner has known for years) joined us. She kept the others away with one look. Since she knew most of them, we were left alone in her presence. Kind of felt like a bodyguard. Ah well, we had fun and I learned some new african moves.
I took the Coast bus to Nairobi and checked into Milimani Backpackers. It was a 20 mins walk into the city from the hostel and in a nice location. Many other hotels were around so I felt safe there.
Most Kenyans speak english, swahili and their tribal language. It was easy to get directions and find anything I needed. They grew up speaking their native tongue, then learned swahili and english in primary and secondary school. So much easier travelling here than Tanzania.
Once settled into my dorm room, I went into the restaurant, had dinner, met some nice girls and lounged around before bed.
This morning, I put my belongings in storage. My flight for Egypt didn't leave till 4 am but I thought I'd  head to the airport around midnight. That way I wouldn't have to pay for another night.
I headed into town to run a few errands and window shop. I had to weave in and out of the traffic to cross the roads. Drivers at each others bumpers, blocking intersections and crosswalks. Pedestrians had to walk in front of the slow moving cars or they wouldn't get anywhere.
I saw some really nice clothes in Nairobi. It's a well developed city with lots of shops. Shame I'm backpacking. I can't carry around any extra weight, otherwise I'd buy a few things. Maybe next time.
When I got back to the hostel, one of my new friends invited me out to dinner. We went back into town, ate at a local cafe, then went to a pub that had a live band. I loved watching the singers dance. The girls sure move their hips! The music was nice, had a reggae feel to it.
 After that, we headed home. Now I'm passing the late evening hours until my taxi comes to take me to the airport. It's going to be a long night, but I'm excited about going to Cairo. The hostel I chose online arrange tours so I feel safer about travelling there. Should be fun!