Giza

I arrived in Cairo at 8 in the morning. I checked into my hostel at Hola Cairo and after a power nap, talked to the staff over at the sister hotel called Brothers hostel. There, we made up a 12 day itinerary for a tour through all the main stops I wanted to see. They were able to arrange everything for a good price. Also, any place I wanted to go, they offered to escort me. To show me the shops, eateries, museums, the Nile, pharmacies and the smoke... I mean, tea rooms (ha ha ha).
I popped to Gob restaurant just a block away for a chicken shawarma dinner and made a friend at the hostel. I had a room to myself, but the boy's dorm had a nice balcony. So my new friend invited me to hang out and watch the activity. Egyptian people are so incredibly active in the evening. Hard to believe it's the same street. At 8 am, hardly anyone was driving around, the street with a few parked cars, but many empty stalls. No one walking on the streets. It's like that until around 10 am when stores start to open. Then as the day goes on, more people come out, set up tables and floor mats to lay out their merchandise and stay up until 4 am, calling out their products, trying to make a sale. Some even have music or lights and dramatic visual displays to capture attention. Fun to watch. The traffic is slow moving through downtown and horns are constant. The city is so alive, it almost has it's own song with all the commotion.
After watching from the balcony, we decided to venture out together (safety in numbers) and check out the busy streets. Everyone approached us, trying to sell things. Even saw a guy selling tasers. He walked up and down the street briefly turning it on so we can hear the short zap sounds and see the flash of electricity. Of course, I gave in to the food sellers. Tried a few sweets (and boy were they sweet. I thought my teeth would fall out), fruit (the dates were amazing!) and falafel (I fell in love! It's so good here).
The next morning, I checked into the Brothers hostel. It's warmer here. Hola Cairo was more in the shade so with the concrete buildings, it was cooler. Not desirable for me since I'm still used to 30+ C  temperatures. 16 C just felt too cold. I mostly spent the day relaxing and then Ehab, one of the receptionists, offered to take me to a cafe to socialise with some friends. We walked to Tahrir square, which was the focal point of the revolution last year. Many protesters gathered here (est. 300,000 people) to protest against their former president, Mubarak, and fight against corruption, power inheritance, police brutality, low wages and unemployment, increased food inflation, lack of freedom of speech and the emergency law (which is a law to imprison individuals indefinitely and without reason. Most individuals would not even be trailed). I could still see evidence of the emotional displays. Graffiti, army tanks, posters and memorials were still around. After hearing some of the stories the locals shared with me, I could empathise with them an not help but feel afflicted toward the hardships of the Egyptian people.
During the day, it was just like any other intersection. People sitting on the grass in the roundabout, people eating, smoking, socializing and selling their goods. We went to a cafe across from the roundabout, and there I met Tamer, my Bedouin guide for the oasis and deserts. I had a lovely hibiscus tea and Ehab got a shisha so I could try it. Nice bongs. But strong! It tasted terrible to me, but, seeing how I don't smoke... I guess it's an acquired taste. However, Ehab did say he prefers his cigarettes. Which are super cheap to buy. Only a few Egyptian pounds. It seemed like everyone here smoked. They said "it was a cultural thing, going for generations. It was good for you." I think 90% of the population smoked. Sheesh!
After that, we went back to the hostel where I met up with 2 guys from Brazil to accompany me to a dinner on a Nile cruise boat with some belly dancing. My driver, Ahmed, joined us, making sure we had good seats and didn't go hungry. Buffet food, gotta love it. And it was really good!
We watched a band, 1 female dancer and 2 men who were spectacular with the zills. I even got invited to dance with the female dancer... I wondered if Ahmed told her I was taking classes back at home... Meanwhile, during the dinner and show, the boat just cruised slowly along the Nile and we could see the city lights. Which was illuminous. So strange seeing how much electricity ran though this city compared to Tanzania, who had so little. Like two extremes.

The next morning, Ehab took me to Giza. Our first stop was the Red Pyramid (named after it's reddish colour), in Dahshur. It's one of the oldest (2nd oldest), built around 2612-2589 BC and supposedly the worlds first smooth sided pyramid. Unfortunately, most of the limestone on the outside of the pyramid was used for buildings in Cairo during the middle ages. There was only limestone right along the bottom in places not covered in sand.
I was allowed to go inside. Once going up some wooden stairs, there was a tunnel going down with light on throughout. It smelled so strong down there that I didn't stay too long. Just a quick look around, see the architecture and the chambers and out I went. All those years of stale air and ammonia from the limestone. There were pipes installed to make some air ventilation, but the smell was still there. And it was hot and muggy.
While leaving the Red pyramid, we could see the Bent Pyramid. The angle changes from a 54 degree inclination to a 43 degree at the top. Thus, giving it a "bent" look. It's believed that it was built as a step pyramid but with the angle so steep it was unstable and may collapse so the angle was changed. It's quite unique.
Our next stop was Saqqara, the ancient Egyptian capital, Memphis. The main pyramid here is the step pyramid of Dosjer built in the 27th century BC (2630-2612 BC) for the burial of the Pharaoh Djoser. It was designed by Imhotep and is the oldest of all the pyramids. Saqqara is a burial ground with many tombs, mastabas, complexes and a roofed colonnade with lovely stone pillars. Many coloured hieroglyphics still in great condition within the tombs. I could see the drawings describing all the offerings for the gods and pharaohs.
Then, we went to the Golden Eagle shops. We started at the crystal shop where they had various oil essences. My favourite was the Papyrus and Lotus Flower scents. Next was the papyrus shop where I learned how papyrus paper was made and to learn to differences between the real and fake papers. For example, real papyrus had brown markings from the natural fibre and it's very flexible. I could fold it and reopen it without a crease. I browsed thoroughly though this place, many beautiful paintings. I would have loved to buy some... but it's pricey for me this time around. Thirdly was the general retail store filled with sculptures, plates, furniture, clothes, jewelry, a few belly dance costumes, and souvenir statues made of granite and alabaster.
After that, we went to the Giza Pyramids and Sphynx. I saw the Pyramid of Khufu first. This is the tallest of all pyramids at 146 metres (480 ft) in height and it's base at 230 metres (756 ft). Very impressive. It's also the only intact seven wonders of the ancient world. I climbed up to the inside entrance and enjoyed the view. Ehab said the inside was pretty much the same as the one at the Red pyramid and since this one had an extra fee to enter, I skipped going inside that one.
Then we checked out the western cemetery and went inside a few tombs to see the hieroglyphics in there. Very similar to the ones at Saqqara. But not as many colours. Probably too many tourists using their flash taking pictures. It strips away the original colouring. That's why most of the sites won't allow photography.
Next, to Pyramid of Khafre. This is the only one that still has the original polished limestone casing. Found right at the top. It's the 2nd tallest at 136 metres (448 ft). It had a temple in front of it (which are now just ruins) and a causeway that leaded to the Great Sphynx. Which was where I went last. It had the face of the Pharaoh Khafre and the body of a lion (representing power and strength). It faces the rising sun, so I learned it's best to see it in the morning. Less shadows. Little tip for you all. Ehab told me there was speculation that there were two Sphynx, but the second had never been found. There were locals there offering to take my picture with the Sphynx in different poses to make a tip. I liked the poses, but they weren't very good at taking the photos. Never centred right. I think they rushed the photos to try to take as many as they could and make more money. Guess they need to make a living somehow. Too bad quality isn't much of a priority. They'd make more.
The last one is the Pyramid of Menkaure. The smallest of the 3 at 65 metres (215 ft). It has the smaller Pyramids of the Queens that can be seen along the south side of it. The 3 big main pyramids is thought to be built in line with the constellation, Orion's belt. Hmmmm, could be. Something to think about anyway.

Of course, can't be at a tourist attraction without the vendors. They were everywhere, following me around and never giving up. Many people on camels and horses to give you a ride. I think the average rate is 150 EGP/hr. Next time I come, maybe I'll be able to afford it. Would be nice to do an hour ride to the south side for the nice view of the pyramids clustered together. Bit far to walk there.
 It was strange to see the Pyramids surrounded by the big city of Cairo. I always imagined it out in the vast desert, with the Nile running nearby. Well, that's what it used to be anyway, nowadays, modern civilization has come in.
We headed back to the hostel so I could pack up and be ready for an early pick up with Tamer for tomorrow, so I can start my 3 days out in the deserts.